A Scenic Road Trip through NE Oregon – Journey Thru Time Oregon Scenic Byway, Elkhorn Oregon Scenic Byway, and Blue Mountain Oregon Scenic Byway

30 08 2013

Journey Thru Time BywayFor years, inner NE Oregon has been on my bucket list! I have seen the areas around it, but never been in the thick of it. I have been to Halfway, Oregon. I have been to Hells Canyon. I have hiked the Wallowa Mountains. I have backpacked the Strawberry Mountain Wilderness. Three of Oregon’s Scenic Byways lie there: Journey Thru Time Oregon Scenic Byway, Elkhorn Oregon Scenic Byway, and Blue Mountain Oregon Scenic Byway.

I have always been curious about the less renowned Blue Mountains, and the Elkhorn Mountains. The Central Cascades and Wallowas get all the attention. In the Blue Mountains and Elkhorn Mountains lie the headwaters of the John Day River – the North Fork and Middle Fork.

Elkhorn Byway

And 19th Century history lies here. Gold Rush ghost towns, abandoned mines, mine tailings left behind by Chinese prospectors.

 

Blue Mtn Byway

The John Day River cuts through a swath this region – made famous by the John Day Fossil Beds, where huge discoveries of Ice Age fossils were made. It meanders lazily in the valley underneath the Strawberry Mountains, where cowboys tend cattle and farmers raise grain. In the Elkhorn Mountains, the road passes gold mines before climbing to over 7,300 ft. then descending to the jewel of Anthony Lake.

Oregon’s Blue Mountains are high altitude rolling hills and vast meadows with limitless views of the Columbia Plateau and John Day River. There, one can simply camp on a horizon-to-horizon meadow, with not a care about neighbors whatsoever

This area is full of beauty and history. But not crowds. By comparison, Central Oregon seems downright urban! It has its own beauty, which is not overwhelmed with volcanoes dominating the view. My next few blogs will cover this beautiful, often overlooked, region.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 





Sparks Lake and Hosmer Lake, Oregon

1 08 2013

IMG_0659Just returned from a kayak camping trip to Sparks Lake and Hosmer Lake, Oregon with my friends Jessie and Laura! These two lakes are located right on the Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway in Bend, Oregon. Wow! These are two of the most scenic lakes in the Pacific NW.

Bathed in fantastic clear blue skies and looked upon by 10,450 ft South Sister, Broken Top and Mount Bachelor, these crown jewels are worth paddling. Everyone visiting Oregon ought to come and ply these waters.

On the water you’ve got a 200-degree view of glaciated peaks above. The lakes are easy to explore, their waters typically calm and not too deep.

Sparks Lake and Hosmer Lake have different personalities. Sparks Lake is dominated by flows of a’a lava flows, so sharp they pierced one of my dry bags. These flows make for isolated channels and difficult boat landings. Yet, we found a beautiful camping site with a jaw-dropping view of South Sister!

Breakfast!

Breakfast!

Out on the lake I’m overwhelmed with the views before me. In every direction there is an otherworldly view – each one magnificent all in of itself, yet here there are THREE!

IMG_0640I feel justifiably spoiled.

We have perfect weather, impeccable views, and I have two women with me.

For dinner, we have fresh shrimp and veggie skewers, plus rice. After a laborious preparation involving ginger, garlic etc. the meal perks my taste buds!

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Mount Bachelor provides a backdrop…

Evening is quiet. I have to disclose Sparks Lake is a tourist hot spot. During the day kayaks, canoes, inflatable rafts, everything is out enjoying the view. But we put out on the lake with our camping gear and found a quiet spot, so once dusk came all became quiet. One bright light in the SW sky we determined was Saturn.

After dawn and a breakfast of oats, nuts and fruit, washed down with Sumatran coffee, we packed up the kayaks on the 2013 Ford Escape and headed 20 minutes down the Cascades Lakes Scenic Byway to Hosmer Lake.

Hosmer Lake is characterized by lakelets connected by lillypad clusters, rushes, and channels filled with rainbow and brook trout that would make a fly fisherman blush. It’s a different vibe than Sparks Lake. It’s just as busy though. So, on the channels connecting the lakelets, you have a parade of stand-up paddleboards, kayaks, canoes, etc., and oar powered fishing boats. Everyone is looking down at the fish! Although the whole time, you are surrounded by the mountains!

IMG_0646 It was another impeccable day, with different scenery as a backdrop.

IMG_0645With mountains above, lillies on the water’s surface, and beautiful trout below, it’s hard to beat Hosmer Lake.

IMG_0652Parts of the lake feature Caribbean Blue waters where your boat’s shadow can be seen underneath!

We follow a channel up one end of the lake in search of a waterfall everyone told us about. The water temperature drops precipitously, an indicator we’ve found the source. The width of paddle-able water narrows to two yards – in some places, two feet. Then we glimpse some beached kayaks.

Here, we haul out and make lunch. Just above, there is a to-die-for waterfall beautiful enough to make Laura cry!

That is enough for me. Such a perfect day. We head back to our camp at Sparks Lake for another fabulous meal. Tomorrow we head home, full of memories.





Transforming my new Kayak: The Thunder Dragon Rises!

29 07 2013

I recently acquired my first fiberglass sea kayak – a used Tiderace “Extreme.” It’s one of the world’s most advanced rough water sea kayaks. Specifically designed for kayaking along the ocean surf zone! It’s LOTS OF FUN, if you know how to use it. I’ve used it in the surf and Holy Cow it catches waves with ease. What a ride!

It was used with a lot of scratches. I wanted to refresh its finish. Plus, I was a bit embarrassed by the huge “EXTREME” label up on the bow. It came with some fraying black deck lines and bungees. So, a project was born. “Project THUNDER DRAGON.” I would take this slightly abused “Extreme” and transform it into a fabulous dancing dragon! She came all red. That’s a great start. A Ferrari red, in fact. What goes with Ferrari red? Answer: YELLOW!

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Start by removing black smudges with acetone…

So, how do you refresh a scratched all-red kayak with frayed black bungees? Remove those offending bungees.

Then use acetone to remove rubbery black smudges from the finish. Then get some Boat Guard. Boat Guard is like Liquid Gold for kayaks. Rub it on, even buff it on using a electric buffer, and it hides scratches, leaves a UPF 50 barrier, and leaves a super nice shine!

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Boat Guard makes everything new.

Keeping the boat in the shade, I worked aboIMG_0620ut 90 minutes on the entire hull.

One thing about working with Boat Guard is that, once you start, the results are so fantastic you cannot stop. This kayak went from dull, scratched-looking to fabulous in an hour and a half.

But I was not done. I removed the “Extreme” label from the bow, and substituted a dancing dragon! I felt that was much more the kayak’s true nature.

I replaced its deck lines with yellow bungee cords and yellow reflective perimeter lines.IMG_0677IMG_0676

Here she is, the end product. She is now known as the Thunder Dragon! And she turns heads everywhere she goes! I love it.

 

 

 

 





John Day River Oregon: A Day Running the River!

9 07 2013

IMG_0587Fraternity brother Tully Alford and I spend some “bro time” every summer camping. This year, for our first camp-out we returned to the John Day River. It’s in dry central north Oregon, an area way below the radar of many outdoor enthusiasts, yet if offers tremendous opportunities for those venturing there! Imagine floating down a canyon-walled river. With every turn, a new world unfolds. Not a house or road to be seen. Eagles and hawks float above, bass swim below. Yet only two and a half hours from Portland!

This year we decided to float the river – camping and the using a river shuttle service to pick us up and deliver us to our car at the end of the run. The John Day River is famous for long, flat stretches of running river with rapids connecting them. And for beautiful canyons with layered rocks overhead.

IMG_0579We packed up my new 2013 Ford Escape with Jackson Kayaks Rogue 9 and Rogue 10 kayaks. These kayaks are perfect for this trip, because they are good for the whitewater stretches, but also have a rear hatch – good for storing gear and food – and a skeg for the flat sections so they can be paddled straight.

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Tully getting ready at the put in!

As Tully had no experience in whitewater I gave him a tutorial on entering and exiting the main current into eddies. And, I explained that in rapids there are these things called “holes,” though I couldn’t really explain what they do. So you know, a hole is a backwash behind a boulder. If your boat gets stuck in one, it can be difficult to get out. Your boat gets “sucked in” by the hole.

Running the John Day River is characterized by long stretches of flat water separated by rapids. The plan was for me to run the rapid ahead and Tully follow me through. This worked great until the very end of the day.

I was very impressed! Tully made it through everything and found it fun!

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Tully chills out after a rapid…

Tully began the day in a wetsuit but as the temperature rose, he felt heat-distressed and at lunch took it off. The Jackson Rogue 9’s hatch took the wetsuit with lots of spare room. Lunch was sumptuous. We found a shaded peninsula and made sandwiches of mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, turkey, lettuce, cheddar cheese and tomato. Plus fresh oranges for dessert.IMG_0588

Back on the water. The river and canyons unfolded one after the other. We heard, but could not see, Bighorn Sheep in the hills above. We saw bald eagles. The occasional Smallmouth bass swam below.

The run was from Spray to Service Creek, about 17 river miles. We were told it would take all day. I never believed it, but it was true. We set off at 10:00 a.m. and took out at 4:00 and we were pretty tired. It was a great day. The John Day River took its prize in the last rapid, the hardest of the day. As we approached, I could only see the horizon line and nothing of the features below. We had agreed we did not want to bother scouting, because none of the other rapids were all that hard. As first paddler I went in. Immediately I noticed three holes and lined up my kayak to pass by each one. However, on the second hole, there turned out to be another right behind it, invisible from above. After scooting by the 2nd hole, I darted across and paddled hard past the surprise hole. Tully was not able to do that, and got stuck in that hole. I did not know this until I had made it completely past the rapid and into the pool beyond. Then I looked back and saw carnage! Tully holding on to his boat, but the paddle, spray skirt, his glasses, etc. were floating by and sinking. He looked pretty shaken up and I towed his boat to the shore and he grabbed on.

We kayaked the last stretch and hauled out. No matter, we had a GREAT day on the John Day River!

The evening meal was grilled salmon, salad and mashed potatoes. IMG_0581

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And lots and lots of beer! Tully caps it off with a rendition of The Grateful Dead’s “Ripple.” There’ll be some more campouts coming this summer!

 





A Visit with my Nephew Finny and His Son Jackson Pitches Like Cy Young!

26 06 2013

IMG_0515 I was really looking forward to visiting with Finny and especially watching Jackson play baseball! This was gonna be priceless! First, we took the commuter train to see Finny’s x-wife Catherine where we could all warm up Jackson and then take him to the game.

It was fantastic to see Catherine. She’s doing very well, and it looks like Jackson’s doing great in his Tuckahoe, NY home.

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Catherine is looking good!

This was going to be a big day out on the baseball field for Jackson. He’d pitch an inning or two. And, play some outfield perhaps. So Finny and I set about getting Jackson warmed up for the game.

We did a lot of fielding practice, and some pitching practice. I was surprised how good Jackson was at pitching once he warmed up. Then, when he began to throw a bit wild, I knew it was time to stop. I didn’t want to overdo it!

Next we did batting practice. My how the little guy takes to hitting that ball! Such fun!

IMG_0503Soon, it was time to head to the game. It was a much more “professional” affair than when I was a kid. The teams had semi professional uniforms!

IMG_0505I bet the kids LOVED that. The parents, on the other hand, were so nervous and hopeful that their kids would perform. There was a lot more pressure on them than their children! During some plays, the parents would hide their eyes.

Finally it was time for Jackson to pitch. He managed to give up a walk and a hit which got him into a bases-loaded situation. Parents were covering eyes again. But somehow Jackson managed to dust himself off and pull it together! He struck out the next batter. And then the next and the next! He struck out the side! WOW!IMG_0500

Practice included batting practice!

What a day. Nothing like being with family for a weekend!

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Myself and Finny at the ball park!

I think I will be coming back to the Bronx to visit Finny again!

I also loved the Woodlawn, Bronx, neighborhood. I found a bakery/coffee shop my first morning. Nothing like Portlandia, no, this one is right out of classic NY area lore.

No espresso served, not a hipster to be seen. Oh no. But it is a multi racial, multi class customer base! I saw cops. Yankee caps. I saw parks department workers. I saw lawyers, stock brokers, retirees, blue collar and white collar workers. Just get your coffee and grab that pastry and off they go! And like the show Cheers, everyone knows each other. Super friendly, too. So in the grit of the Bronx, we’ve got warm human souls everywhere.

This area is absolutely densely dominated by Irish pubs! I couldn’t help but ponder how so many can survive in close proximity to one another.

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Just in case you need help?

Just in case you need help?





A Visit Home: New York, NY!

25 06 2013
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Sabretts and Kosher Salted Pretzels = NYC

You probably don’t know this, but NY is my home town! I have relatives in southern CT, Long Island and Manhattan. Recently I paid a visit to my Finny Akers, my nephew, and his son, Jackson. While there I also spent a day in the City and saw my cousin Liza Greene, and a college buddy, Andy Schattman. A visit to NYC is always worth the trip!

I stayed in The Bronx with Finny – one must take a commuter train into Grand Central Terminal, and from there, you can walk about the City or grab the subway to zip to any destination. Wonderful!

Commuter Rail Cutie

All Aboard! Cute conductor!

It wasn’t long before I arrived at Grand Central. I planned to have lunch with Liza but I arrived early. So, I spent time walking about Manhattan. It was a bit windy and rainy! In rainy Portland, Oregon, where I live, people walk the streets clad in Gore-Tex. But in NYC, umbrellas rule!

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Umbrellas everywhere, crowing the areas above your head!

NYC is the capital of making money. Rain is just such an opportunity and I saw several folks hawking cheap umbrellas, and passing pedestrians were snapping them up.

The wind was taking every opportunity to destroy any unsuspecting umbrella. Quite a few caught gusts and were wrecked.

IMG_0479I spent about an hour walking around Midtown Manhattan. Even on a rainy day people watching is entertaining in New York City.

I was to meet Liza back near Grand Central for lunch so I returned to that area.

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Liza and me!

It was terrific to see Liza. We talked so much that it was hard to even order food! Everything from Oregon, to Hurricane Sandy, to her daughter, to my brother John.

Do you use Facebook? On this trip the social media website came into play as friends and family learned I was coming to NY! So, with a quick click of the mouse and a text message and a subway ride to lower Manhattan, I was able to connect with longtime college buddy and ski friend Andrew Schattman! It was great to see him! Funny how quickly something like that can happen.

We were college buddies and later took shares in a ski house in Killington, VT and also skied out in Colorado.

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Me and Andy!

Then with some more time I headed uptown to the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

I wanted to see some of the Egyptian collection and my favorites – the Impressionists.

I was not disappointed. In fact, I was completely overwhelmed. I had not been back there in 20 years, and its collection is absolutely MASSIVE and beautifully presented.

Block-long galleries of Roman and Greek sculpture and statues, as well as Mesopotamian, American Indian, Eurpoean paintings, Chinese antiquities, it’s absolutely WONDERFUL and ENDLESS. You can spend days in there!

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There is Renoir, Manet, Monet, Seurat, Van Gogh, Degas, Cassatt, Pissarro, Gauguin – they’re all there! My eyes teared as I witnessed some of my favorites.IMG_0489

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