Sun Peaks, British Columbia

28 02 2024

I drove the spectacular lake and mountain splashed Trans Canada Highway from Revelstoke to Kamloops. It’s about 3-4 hours. Eye popping views the entire way. Huge lakes with mountains dropping right down to the shore. And the Canadian National Railway snakes along the shore right along the other side. It was right out of a model railroad scene. Snowy, and I glimpsed a lakeside tunnel opening just as the lead freight locomotive popped through! I even saw my favorite wildlife of this road trip: a trumpeter swan.

I arrived in Kamloops about 1:30 p.m. and checked in to local landmark Scott’s Inn & Suites. Turned out to be a winner! I was checked in by a recently immigrated sub continent Indian who was training a recently immigrated woman from Ivory Coast. Best room of the trip with the biggest TV too. The Inn is a mid 20th Century kitschy architecture outside, but the rooms are 100% updated. Plus it has an equally quirky comfort food restaurant where hotel guests get 15% off. Most of the patrons at the restaurant are retirees. The food is straight up North American fare. Service is very efficient and helpful. I found it to be a super easy place for breakfast. Just crawl out of bed and head over. Once at Sun Peaks, every local I talked to knew about Scott’s! Seems like it is a staple in the Kamloops culture. After all, it’s been there over 60 years.

In contrast to Revelstoke and Rossland, which cater to the outdoor enthusiast, Kamloops is some kind of hodgepodge of outdoor recreation, agricultural, mining, railroad and timber industries’ regional headquarters. It has a gigantic railroad yard, where the famous Rocky Mountaineer passenger train was stored for the winter. I saw a film in a large shopping mall. Lots of tractor dealerships and service centers. The Canadian National was moving potash trains day and night. Potash is a mineral left over from ancient lakes, essential for fertilizer and mined in central Canada and shipped globally. And the banks that support these industries are well represented. It has a well developed bus transportation system with a sizeable central bus station. Kamloops is an easy 40-minute drive from the ski lifts at Sun Peaks.

With 4,270 acres of terrain, Sun Peaks is the second largest alpine ski area in Canada after Whistler Blackcomb. Its alpine village is walking-only, giving it a European feel. There’s no need to rush from Kamloops. You can get a good parking spot no worries!

During my three days at Sun Peaks, I covered the whole resort. I found the locals inclusive and friendly. In fact, on my very first lift up I met Redge and Louise, who own a house at the base. I skied with them all morning!

Conditions were very good, with plenty of fresh snow on tap. There was occasional fog blowing through.

Sun Peaks covers both sides of a valley with the village at the bottom. Locals said it gets drier snow than Whistler. Some said they’d switched to this place from Whistler because it’s less busy, less expensive and the snow is more reliable.

On day two, I opted to take part in one of Sun Peaks’ complimentary guided mountain tours. Like at RED Mountain, tours are divided up by ability level. We had maybe 7 guests in our group and two guides. They took us all over, including both sides of the valley. Lots of fun!

Sun Peaks Base area
Negotiating some trees!

While Sun Peaks definitely caters to vacationers from afar, it’s very definitely a local Kamloops family ski area. There were races going on, and the lodge had many, many kids doing what kids do!

Sun Peaks was my last BC ski area on this road trip. I liked all of them! RED Mountain, Revelstoke and Sun Peaks all have strong points. I was to make Crystal Mountain, WA my next stop on my way back to Portland, OR where I live. But a strong warm front brought a rainy monsoon that washed over a foot of snow away. I canceled that part and returned home.

Would I return to these ski resort? Definitely! Good snow, welcoming people, and very uncrowded. These days, less crowded alpine skiing is priceless!





5,620ft of Revelstoke, British Columbia!

21 02 2024

My Canadian ski bum tour’s next stop after RED Mountain was Revelstoke. It’s a four hour drive north. On drive day, it was snowy and icy all the way. Twice I had to stop and knock off ice in my wheel wells. There isn’t much in the way of food options in January along the route. It’s beautiful, meandering along 142 mile long Arrow Lakes, which have steep hillsides. Luckily I like driving in the snow!

An added twist was that at the end of the lakes, the road ends and one must take a ferry to reach the road on the other side! This seemed so bizarre to me. For the first time in my life I was taking a ferry to go skiing.

I reached the town about 2:30 p.m., and checked in at Monashee Lodge. Just before town there’s a recommended restaurant called the Big Eddy Pub. Everyone loves it. I paid a visit. As soon as I opened the car door at the lodge, the sound of big mountain skiing came to my ears! A helicopter’s thump thump thump!

Someone’s heli skiing!

The town of Revelstoke has lots of late 19th Century architecture character plus hotels, restaurants and stores. It is a fully three-season outdoor recreation powerhouse. The Columbia River and Upper Arrowhead Lake, plus numerous creeks and streams, offer swimming, fishing, sailboarding, kayaking and powerboating. The mountains, which reach over 11,000ft, contain a few national parks such as Revelstoke and Glacier. So there is hiking, backpacking, camping, alpine and Nordic skiing, snowboarding, sky diving and paragliding. The town also has an active arts and music scene. Something for everybody! They even have a local curling club.

I came for the skiing at the infamous Revelstoke Mountain Resort, with the largest vertical drop in North America. In fact, I never could ski all the way down. I opted to ride the lower Revelation Gondola back to the base. The base is just outside of downtown, 10-15 minutes from town center. The legendary terrain did not disappoint. And I got lucky with plenty of fresh snow! It was so snowy and sometimes foggy that I never saw the views! Revelstoke has plenty of bowls and tree skiing. My advice is never ski in those areas alone! They might never find you, if you get lost!

The base is pretty spartan. It’s got a lodge and essential services, like a coffee shop, ski retail, ski repair and rentals. It was snowing magically. I met a lot of people from all over – France, Switzerland, New Zealand, Quebec, Belgium, and more – but no Americans. I even encountered people on the lift who know my sailboat racing friends in Marblehead, Massachusetts!





RED Mountain and Rossland, BC

11 02 2024

In January 2024 I did my 3rd annual ski bum road trip! This time, Anthony Lakes, OR, Schweitzer, ID, RED Mountain, BC, Revelstoke, BC, and Sun Peaks, BC! I planned to go to Crystal Mountain, WA, but a warm up cut that out. I loved RED Mountain! It’s in the Kootenay, about 12 miles north of the Washington border, in lovely Rossland. All towns had their positives, but for me Rossland is the most charming of all.

RED Mountain is only 12 minutes from downtown. It has a very local feel to it. No high speed quads here. Regulars say that keeps the crowds away. I was fortunate to have nice conditions in this El Nino winter, which has been cruel to Pacific NW resorts. It snowed 3-4″ each night, leaving comfy conditions.

RED Mountain offers complementary guided skiing twice a day. You can choose skill levels from novice to advanced/expert. I chose intermediate, with my knee still recovering. It turned out that I had a one-on-one guided experience with Abigail! She showed me all the lifts, and we did groomed blues and also a tree run with tight turns.

Like almost every day on this trip, it was cloudy and I never saw the tops of the mountains surrounding. The bright side? SNOW. Lots and lots of fresh fluffy snow! Back at my Lone Star Hotel, which sits in the forest at the bottom of the access road, intoxicating calm-wind snow showers came and went. RED mountain offers terrain for all skill levels. And even on a Saturday with fresh snow, lift lines were insignificant.

It is easy to be spoiled there. One starts to just take for granted that you can get an easy parking spot. No reservations necessary. People are very laid back and friendly. It’s so uncrowded that it is ranked #1 acres per skier in North America! What’s not to like? I also met quite a few Kiwis either skiing or working at the lodge. When asked about skiing in New Zealand, they said, “Not very good. That’s why we’re all here!”

As an IKON pass holder, I follow the IKON user group. Day after day, members post images of enormous lines at California, Colorado and Utah resorts. It’s a wonder BC is still so relatively undiscovered!

RED Mountain boasts one more signficant asset, and that is the so cute you can hug it town of Rossland! Its small, it’s welcoming, it’s got lots of late 19th Century architecture, a bevy of nice restaurants, shops, and outdoor gear outfitters. At the grocery store, Ferraros, you find all that you need, and folks recruiting volunteers for the upcoming music festival.

After visiting some other ski towns infested with corporate resorts catering to the very rich, Rossland is very refreshing. I will definitely return. Here, childhood really is filled with healthy outdoorsy activities rather than cell phone video games.

Summertime activities include river running, hiking, backpacking, fishing,

horseback riding, and more.