Oregon’s Ochoco Mountains and John Day River Picture Gorge: Journey Thru Time Oregon Scenic Byway

30 08 2013
Journey Thru Time Car

Uh Oh! Am I going back in time?

Planning my trip was a bit of an effort. The route I wanted to see in inner NE Oregon wasn’t all that clear – I had no less than four maps and guides. Some showed route numbers, and some just gray lines on the map. Others showed possible ghost towns, like “Greenhorn,” “Granite,” “Sumpter,” or “Susanville.”  And others still showed tent icons where one might camp along the way. So, I pieced together a route from all these sources. Looking at it in total, I decided the most rewarding way to head out there was to use Oregon’s highway 26. That would take me past Mount Hood, into Central Oregon, through Prineville, and up and into the Ochoco Mountains.

From there, the road would meander along the John Day River and the Journey Thru Time Oregon Scenic Byway. What better way to get to inner NE Oregon? The other way would take me via I-84 which I have seen so many times. Highway 26 meanders through farms, ranches, and small towns such as Mitchell, Dayville and Prairie City, all the way to its connection with the Elkhorn Oregon Scenic Byway.

I’d need to get an early start. So the night before, I packed the 2013 Ford Escape SE. The weather forecast looked great. I would be on the road by 8:00 a.m. And what a day it was. Sunny and bright. I’d just had the car’s first oil change, so it was ready. Packed up, iPhone 4S plugged in with 1,840 songs, ready to go!  No kayaking this trip so I removed the roof rack to get max mileage. I’ll have grilled pork chops tonight with mashed potatoes and salad. But I dunno where I’ll be camping. Just figure it out. See how it goes.

On my way. Up and over the Oregon Cascades, through Blue Box Pass, about 4,400ft. Then into the Central Oregon Plateau past Madras. From here, I can see Mount Bachelor (9,068 ft), the Three Sisters (10,358 ft),  Broken Top, Mount Washington (7,800 ft) Three Fingered Jack, Mount Jefferson (10,450 ft) Olallie Butte, Mount Hood (11,241 ft) and even Mount Adams (12,280 ft)!

I climb the Ochocos. These are high dry mountains. It’s pretty up here. Ponderosa pines are everywhere.

OchocoDescending toward the John Day River Valley, the view is unlimited, the sky crystal clear.

The road eventually drops into a crack in the earth – the Picture Gorge. In the Picture Gorge, the John Day River has followed a fault line for millions of years. That is right.

And it has flowed here for so long that it is older than the mountains themselves. When the flood basalts erupted and flowed all over eastern Oregon millions of years ago, the John Day River kept on cutting through on its way to the Columbia. Thousands of feet of basalt layer caked one upon another but the John Day continued cutting.

Today, the John Day river flows north right through the ascending basalt layers, even as the highway descends in the opposite direction. There are few places on Planet Earth where a river seems to flow INTO a mountain, rather than out of it. This is one such place. I saw another in New Zealand, when I was there in January 2013.

Not long after the Picture Gorge, highway 26 opens up into a beautiful valley filled with farms and ranches.

It is here one finds the entrance to the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument and Oregon’s Painted Hills. I’m not here to see these treasures, my quarry lies beyond.

But I am enjoying the view, and by noon getting hungry. The town of Mitchell comes within striking distance, so I decide to Stop in Mitchell, Oregon and grab a bite for lunch. Mitchell1

Like a lot of eastern Oregon towns, Mitchell has seen better days. Yet, it has enough character to hold up all its own. Townsfolk lazily walk the street, stopping to seek shelter and converse under a shady porch or tree.

Mitchell2Nobody is in a hurry in Mitchell!

My lunch spot today is to be the Little Pine Cafe, right on main street.

Its customers this lunch are myself, a family from Portland, and a mother with toddler. Mom and toddler regularly go behind the counter to pick up condiments or change the station playing on cable TV.Mitchell3

I pick the Mushroom Swiss burger and a side of macaroni & cheese. Turns out to be fine and dandy!

Adorning the walls are pictures of John Wayne, Clint Eastwood, Gene Autry, plus locals over the years. There are a lot of dollar bills with various scribbles thumb-tacked to the walls. One says, “Brought my boyfriend from CA up here. He says, this explains a lot!”

I can only imagine. I depart feeling satisfied, planning to return on my next pass through.

Today’s drive will take me through the towns of John Day, Prairie City, and into the Elkhorns, into Sumpter and Granite.

Check back on the next blog post for Elkhorn Mountain trip journal entries!





A Scenic Road Trip through NE Oregon – Journey Thru Time Oregon Scenic Byway, Elkhorn Oregon Scenic Byway, and Blue Mountain Oregon Scenic Byway

30 08 2013

Journey Thru Time BywayFor years, inner NE Oregon has been on my bucket list! I have seen the areas around it, but never been in the thick of it. I have been to Halfway, Oregon. I have been to Hells Canyon. I have hiked the Wallowa Mountains. I have backpacked the Strawberry Mountain Wilderness. Three of Oregon’s Scenic Byways lie there: Journey Thru Time Oregon Scenic Byway, Elkhorn Oregon Scenic Byway, and Blue Mountain Oregon Scenic Byway.

I have always been curious about the less renowned Blue Mountains, and the Elkhorn Mountains. The Central Cascades and Wallowas get all the attention. In the Blue Mountains and Elkhorn Mountains lie the headwaters of the John Day River – the North Fork and Middle Fork.

Elkhorn Byway

And 19th Century history lies here. Gold Rush ghost towns, abandoned mines, mine tailings left behind by Chinese prospectors.

 

Blue Mtn Byway

The John Day River cuts through a swath this region – made famous by the John Day Fossil Beds, where huge discoveries of Ice Age fossils were made. It meanders lazily in the valley underneath the Strawberry Mountains, where cowboys tend cattle and farmers raise grain. In the Elkhorn Mountains, the road passes gold mines before climbing to over 7,300 ft. then descending to the jewel of Anthony Lake.

Oregon’s Blue Mountains are high altitude rolling hills and vast meadows with limitless views of the Columbia Plateau and John Day River. There, one can simply camp on a horizon-to-horizon meadow, with not a care about neighbors whatsoever

This area is full of beauty and history. But not crowds. By comparison, Central Oregon seems downright urban! It has its own beauty, which is not overwhelmed with volcanoes dominating the view. My next few blogs will cover this beautiful, often overlooked, region.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 





A Visit with my Nephew Finny and His Son Jackson Pitches Like Cy Young!

26 06 2013

IMG_0515 I was really looking forward to visiting with Finny and especially watching Jackson play baseball! This was gonna be priceless! First, we took the commuter train to see Finny’s x-wife Catherine where we could all warm up Jackson and then take him to the game.

It was fantastic to see Catherine. She’s doing very well, and it looks like Jackson’s doing great in his Tuckahoe, NY home.

IMG_0499

Catherine is looking good!

This was going to be a big day out on the baseball field for Jackson. He’d pitch an inning or two. And, play some outfield perhaps. So Finny and I set about getting Jackson warmed up for the game.

We did a lot of fielding practice, and some pitching practice. I was surprised how good Jackson was at pitching once he warmed up. Then, when he began to throw a bit wild, I knew it was time to stop. I didn’t want to overdo it!

Next we did batting practice. My how the little guy takes to hitting that ball! Such fun!

IMG_0503Soon, it was time to head to the game. It was a much more “professional” affair than when I was a kid. The teams had semi professional uniforms!

IMG_0505I bet the kids LOVED that. The parents, on the other hand, were so nervous and hopeful that their kids would perform. There was a lot more pressure on them than their children! During some plays, the parents would hide their eyes.

Finally it was time for Jackson to pitch. He managed to give up a walk and a hit which got him into a bases-loaded situation. Parents were covering eyes again. But somehow Jackson managed to dust himself off and pull it together! He struck out the next batter. And then the next and the next! He struck out the side! WOW!IMG_0500

Practice included batting practice!

What a day. Nothing like being with family for a weekend!

IMG_0512

Myself and Finny at the ball park!

I think I will be coming back to the Bronx to visit Finny again!

I also loved the Woodlawn, Bronx, neighborhood. I found a bakery/coffee shop my first morning. Nothing like Portlandia, no, this one is right out of classic NY area lore.

No espresso served, not a hipster to be seen. Oh no. But it is a multi racial, multi class customer base! I saw cops. Yankee caps. I saw parks department workers. I saw lawyers, stock brokers, retirees, blue collar and white collar workers. Just get your coffee and grab that pastry and off they go! And like the show Cheers, everyone knows each other. Super friendly, too. So in the grit of the Bronx, we’ve got warm human souls everywhere.

This area is absolutely densely dominated by Irish pubs! I couldn’t help but ponder how so many can survive in close proximity to one another.

IMG_0498

IMG_0497

Just in case you need help?

Just in case you need help?





A Visit Home: New York, NY!

25 06 2013
IMG_0494

Sabretts and Kosher Salted Pretzels = NYC

You probably don’t know this, but NY is my home town! I have relatives in southern CT, Long Island and Manhattan. Recently I paid a visit to my Finny Akers, my nephew, and his son, Jackson. While there I also spent a day in the City and saw my cousin Liza Greene, and a college buddy, Andy Schattman. A visit to NYC is always worth the trip!

I stayed in The Bronx with Finny – one must take a commuter train into Grand Central Terminal, and from there, you can walk about the City or grab the subway to zip to any destination. Wonderful!

Commuter Rail Cutie

All Aboard! Cute conductor!

It wasn’t long before I arrived at Grand Central. I planned to have lunch with Liza but I arrived early. So, I spent time walking about Manhattan. It was a bit windy and rainy! In rainy Portland, Oregon, where I live, people walk the streets clad in Gore-Tex. But in NYC, umbrellas rule!

IMG_0475

Umbrellas everywhere, crowing the areas above your head!

NYC is the capital of making money. Rain is just such an opportunity and I saw several folks hawking cheap umbrellas, and passing pedestrians were snapping them up.

The wind was taking every opportunity to destroy any unsuspecting umbrella. Quite a few caught gusts and were wrecked.

IMG_0479I spent about an hour walking around Midtown Manhattan. Even on a rainy day people watching is entertaining in New York City.

I was to meet Liza back near Grand Central for lunch so I returned to that area.

IMG_0483

Liza and me!

It was terrific to see Liza. We talked so much that it was hard to even order food! Everything from Oregon, to Hurricane Sandy, to her daughter, to my brother John.

Do you use Facebook? On this trip the social media website came into play as friends and family learned I was coming to NY! So, with a quick click of the mouse and a text message and a subway ride to lower Manhattan, I was able to connect with longtime college buddy and ski friend Andrew Schattman! It was great to see him! Funny how quickly something like that can happen.

We were college buddies and later took shares in a ski house in Killington, VT and also skied out in Colorado.

IMG_0486

Me and Andy!

Then with some more time I headed uptown to the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

I wanted to see some of the Egyptian collection and my favorites – the Impressionists.

I was not disappointed. In fact, I was completely overwhelmed. I had not been back there in 20 years, and its collection is absolutely MASSIVE and beautifully presented.

Block-long galleries of Roman and Greek sculpture and statues, as well as Mesopotamian, American Indian, Eurpoean paintings, Chinese antiquities, it’s absolutely WONDERFUL and ENDLESS. You can spend days in there!

IMG_0491

There is Renoir, Manet, Monet, Seurat, Van Gogh, Degas, Cassatt, Pissarro, Gauguin – they’re all there! My eyes teared as I witnessed some of my favorites.IMG_0489

IMG_0492

 

IMG_0493





Auckland, New Zealand – America’s Cup Ground Zero

11 04 2013
IMG_0377

Wow. That’s a big ship.

Today is our last in New Zealand. Our flights home, mine to Oregon, USA, and Elwin and Angelique’s to Amsterdam, all depart late today. We stayed in Auckland, at the Juicy Hotel, which is walking distance from the Auckland waterfront. So, as the day broke spectacularly blue and bright, we saunter off to explore that area.

After breakfast, we head straight to the waterfront. Docked are three giant cruise ships, looking like skyscrapers floating on their sides. The Diamond Princess is probably 14 stories tall. Thousands of passengers are disembarking, and I shudder contemplating spending vacation standing in line at every port. There’s also a car carrier, essentially a gigantic windowless box with a tiny bridge up top. It was disgorging its burden of the latest vehicles.

It was just perfect weather. No humidity. In the high 70s. Ahhhh.

We wander the piers, gazing out at the busy harbor. All the commercial freighters, the sailboats, and the mega yacht power boats as well.

Everywhere the Kiwi obsession with sailing is in full display. I spot some huge masts in the distance and convince Elwin and Angelique to go investigate. The area is known as Viaduct Harbor.

IMG_0382

A mega sloop and mega ketch at the dock. Both over 120ft long

Along the way, we pass by the New Zealand America’s Cup Museum. This is a true manifestation of their achievement in the sport of sailboat racing. Outside, is KZ 1, a representation of New Zealand’s boldness in sailing.

IMG_0376

New Zealand 1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back in 1988 New Zealand’s Michael Fay used a clause in the rules which said a challenger can use any boat type 90-ft or less at the waterline for the competition, and set the race ten months hence. Traditionally, for decades, 12-Meter Class boats had been used. So New Zealand built a 144-foot mega yacht and challenged all comers to try to beat it (still 90ft at the waterline). But the rules didn’t say the defender had to build the same type yacht. So famously, Dennis Conner of the USA fired back, using the fine print, and built an ultra modern catamaran as a counter. It was a mismatch from the start. The multi hulled USA boat absolutely destroyed KZ-1. Since that time, America’s Cup competition has always been in “classes” of similar boats build to “class” specification, to maximize competition.

In those days, crews and sailboats of America’s Cup yachts were 100% from their home countries. At some point, pro sailors from any country were allowed to crew a yacht. And so it came to be that a boat from Japan or Switzerland could be crewed by citizens from anywhere. So, where would you guess the #1 country feeding today’s America’s Cup crews would be? New Zealand! Not only that. Somehow, over the years, one country and one town would build most of the boats sailing the America’s Cup. And what town would that be?

Answer: Auckland, New Zealand! That’s right. I noticed a gigantic Italian flag flying near the waterfront, and it was the headquarters for Prada Luna Rossa from Italy!

IMG_0383

The 2013 America’s Cup will be sailed in 72-foot hydrofoil catamarans in San Francisco Bay. These boats reach top speeds exceeding 40 knots! Most come from Auckland. These boats don’t have traditional sails. Rather, they have wings. They are so challenging to handle that smaller scale versions called AC-45s have been used as training boats for several years.

Tucked in behind the waterfront are warehouses where teams build the AC72 yachts and gyms for each. The Italians, Kiwis, and Swedes had their boats built and tested here.

Kiwis have lots of sailing accomplishments:

  • 1995 NZL 32 “Black Magic,” skippered by Russell Coutts, stuns the world winning the America’s Cup
  • 2000 NZL 60 shuts out Italy’s Prada (Luna Rossa) 5-0 to defend the Cup
  • 2003 Kiwis Russell Coutts and Brad Butterworth, sailing the Swiss boat Alinghi, defeat their countrymen sailing for New Zealand
  • 2007 the airline Emirates sponsors Team New Zealand. They reached the finals racing again against fellow Kiwis on the Swiss Alinghi. But Alinghi managed a narrow victory.
  • 2013 Team New Zealand has built the most successful AC72 catamaran thus far, and they were the first to manage to sail the craft consistently using hydrofoils at speeds in excess of 40 knots.

IMG_0384

I wanted to spend more time at the America’s Cup Museum, but the time comes for me to head to the airport. One last left-side-of-the-road journey.

I’ve seen a lot in my month in New Zealand – live volcanoes and geysers, golden beaches, fiords, dolphins swimming under my sailboat, giant tree ferns, sapphire streams and seas, and glaciers. There is a lot to see and do here.

Definitely add New Zealand to your travel plans!





Beautiful Sandy Bay and Matapouri – East Coast of New Zealand’s North Island

9 04 2013

IMG_0355It’s time for us to make our way south to Auckland. We are to depart New Zealand tomorrow! We plan to party tonight in Auckland. But we’re in no rush to get there. So we decide to meander along the east coast – explore the many nooks and beaches along the North Island along the way.

So we take the main road south, but we divert east on a road marked “To Matapouri.” We knew that town was on the coast. This turns out to be one of the most wonderful drives of our trip. This road makes countless switchbacks and tight, blind curves through beautiful lonely farmland and then all of the sudden reaches the Pacific!

We never pass by another car on the way. But when we reach a spot called Sandy Bay, well, it’s a little overwhelming. This beach had probably 30 surfers, less than 10 houses, and is tucked in on each side by beautiful peninsulas. No crowds. Turquoise waters. Warm breezes. An easy surf break.IMG_0358

Holy cow we just found a slice of paradise! And it’s completely below the tourist radar. There’s almost nobody here! Purrrrfect weather.

We spend an hour soaking up the weather and the view. Waves were only four feet high, but perfect for mellow surfing. The beach sand is a golden color, very gentle feeling. On the left, there are some rocky outcroppings enclosing an easy snorkeling area.

One can’t help but get the feeling that we are in a private beach. Of course it’s not. We drive on south along this coastal road and discover even more beach bays, one after the other. This is really a beautiful part of New Zealand, and it’s not generally covered in the travel journals.

IMG_0366

Maybe because it’s relatively close to Auckland, I’m not sure. But all I can say it’s absolutely beautiful and so uncrowded.

IMG_0364

We headed south to Matapouri, a super quiet town on a bay near the coast.

Elwin, Angelique and I were all hungry, so we stopped in by a shanty shack place advertising seafood. It is here I made the classic mistake on expecting something and then getting something entirely different.

I see a “red snapper” on the menu. I adore red snapper, so I order it. The menu said nothing like “broiled” or “fried” next to red snapper. I began to have misgivings about my order but let it go as we waited outside. I also ordered “medium chips,” and I knew those were what we Americans call French fries.

When the call came for me, “ROD,” was heard, I went to the counter to pick up my order. When I saw it, I knew I blew it! My newspaper-wrapped red snapper was deep fried, in a fish and chips fashion. I accepted it as if this was what I expected, but truth be known, I don’t like fried fish very much. I wish it were broiled or baked. And then there is the issue of the chips, which Americans know as French Fries. As an American, I asked for some ketchup. The response was, “$2 for the tomato sauce (that is Kiwi for ketchup).” I can’t imagine paying that much for a little ketchup! So I just went without. While this wasn’t my ideal meal experience, I just went with the situation and tried to enjoy as much as I could! In another country, Argentina, there was another peculiar custom at many restaurants. Often a restaurant adds a surcharge for your silverware! I guess one saves by bringing their own?

All taken together, our day meandering down the coast of New Zealand’s North Island was an unexpected slice of paradise!

Then it’s on to Auckland. We’ve booked a room at the Juicy Hotel in the heart of the city. We depart tomorrow, later in the day.