I recently acquired my first fiberglass sea kayak – a used Tiderace “Extreme.” It’s one of the world’s most advanced rough water sea kayaks. Specifically designed for kayaking along the ocean surf zone! It’s LOTS OF FUN, if you know how to use it. I’ve used it in the surf and Holy Cow it catches waves with ease. What a ride!
It was used with a lot of scratches. I wanted to refresh its finish. Plus, I was a bit embarrassed by the huge “EXTREME” label up on the bow. It came with some fraying black deck lines and bungees. So, a project was born. “Project THUNDER DRAGON.” I would take this slightly abused “Extreme” and transform it into a fabulous dancing dragon! She came all red. That’s a great start. A Ferrari red, in fact. What goes with Ferrari red? Answer: YELLOW!
Start by removing black smudges with acetone…
So, how do you refresh a scratched all-red kayak with frayed black bungees? Remove those offending bungees.
Then use acetone to remove rubbery black smudges from the finish. Then get some Boat Guard. Boat Guard is like Liquid Gold for kayaks. Rub it on, even buff it on using a electric buffer, and it hides scratches, leaves a UPF 50 barrier, and leaves a super nice shine!
Boat Guard makes everything new.
Keeping the boat in the shade, I worked about 90 minutes on the entire hull.
One thing about working with Boat Guard is that, once you start, the results are so fantastic you cannot stop. This kayak went from dull, scratched-looking to fabulous in an hour and a half.
But I was not done. I removed the “Extreme” label from the bow, and substituted a dancing dragon! I felt that was much more the kayak’s true nature.
I replaced its deck lines with yellow bungee cords and yellow reflective perimeter lines.
Here she is, the end product. She is now known as the Thunder Dragon! And she turns heads everywhere she goes! I love it.
Fraternity brother Tully Alford and I spend some “bro time” every summer camping. This year, for our first camp-out we returned to the John Day River. It’s in dry central north Oregon, an area way below the radar of many outdoor enthusiasts, yet if offers tremendous opportunities for those venturing there! Imagine floating down a canyon-walled river. With every turn, a new world unfolds. Not a house or road to be seen. Eagles and hawks float above, bass swim below. Yet only two and a half hours from Portland!
This year we decided to float the river – camping and the using a river shuttle service to pick us up and deliver us to our car at the end of the run. The John Day River is famous for long, flat stretches of running river with rapids connecting them. And for beautiful canyons with layered rocks overhead.
We packed up my new 2013 Ford Escape with Jackson Kayaks Rogue 9 and Rogue 10 kayaks. These kayaks are perfect for this trip, because they are good for the whitewater stretches, but also have a rear hatch – good for storing gear and food – and a skeg for the flat sections so they can be paddled straight.
Tully getting ready at the put in!
As Tully had no experience in whitewater I gave him a tutorial on entering and exiting the main current into eddies. And, I explained that in rapids there are these things called “holes,” though I couldn’t really explain what they do. So you know, a hole is a backwash behind a boulder. If your boat gets stuck in one, it can be difficult to get out. Your boat gets “sucked in” by the hole.
Running the John Day River is characterized by long stretches of flat water separated by rapids. The plan was for me to run the rapid ahead and Tully follow me through. This worked great until the very end of the day.
I was very impressed! Tully made it through everything and found it fun!
Tully chills out after a rapid…
Tully began the day in a wetsuit but as the temperature rose, he felt heat-distressed and at lunch took it off. The Jackson Rogue 9’s hatch took the wetsuit with lots of spare room. Lunch was sumptuous. We found a shaded peninsula and made sandwiches of mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, turkey, lettuce, cheddar cheese and tomato. Plus fresh oranges for dessert.
Back on the water. The river and canyons unfolded one after the other. We heard, but could not see, Bighorn Sheep in the hills above. We saw bald eagles. The occasional Smallmouth bass swam below.
The run was from Spray to Service Creek, about 17 river miles. We were told it would take all day. I never believed it, but it was true. We set off at 10:00 a.m. and took out at 4:00 and we were pretty tired. It was a great day. The John Day River took its prize in the last rapid, the hardest of the day. As we approached, I could only see the horizon line and nothing of the features below. We had agreed we did not want to bother scouting, because none of the other rapids were all that hard. As first paddler I went in. Immediately I noticed three holes and lined up my kayak to pass by each one. However, on the second hole, there turned out to be another right behind it, invisible from above. After scooting by the 2nd hole, I darted across and paddled hard past the surprise hole. Tully was not able to do that, and got stuck in that hole. I did not know this until I had made it completely past the rapid and into the pool beyond. Then I looked back and saw carnage! Tully holding on to his boat, but the paddle, spray skirt, his glasses, etc. were floating by and sinking. He looked pretty shaken up and I towed his boat to the shore and he grabbed on.
We kayaked the last stretch and hauled out. No matter, we had a GREAT day on the John Day River!
The evening meal was grilled salmon, salad and mashed potatoes.
And lots and lots of beer! Tully caps it off with a rendition of The Grateful Dead’s “Ripple.” There’ll be some more campouts coming this summer!
It’s time for us to make our way south to Auckland. We are to depart New Zealand tomorrow! We plan to party tonight in Auckland. But we’re in no rush to get there. So we decide to meander along the east coast – explore the many nooks and beaches along the North Island along the way.
So we take the main road south, but we divert east on a road marked “To Matapouri.” We knew that town was on the coast. This turns out to be one of the most wonderful drives of our trip. This road makes countless switchbacks and tight, blind curves through beautiful lonely farmland and then all of the sudden reaches the Pacific!
We never pass by another car on the way. But when we reach a spot called Sandy Bay, well, it’s a little overwhelming. This beach had probably 30 surfers, less than 10 houses, and is tucked in on each side by beautiful peninsulas. No crowds. Turquoise waters. Warm breezes. An easy surf break.
Holy cow we just found a slice of paradise! And it’s completely below the tourist radar. There’s almost nobody here! Purrrrfect weather.
We spend an hour soaking up the weather and the view. Waves were only four feet high, but perfect for mellow surfing. The beach sand is a golden color, very gentle feeling. On the left, there are some rocky outcroppings enclosing an easy snorkeling area.
One can’t help but get the feeling that we are in a private beach. Of course it’s not. We drive on south along this coastal road and discover even more beach bays, one after the other. This is really a beautiful part of New Zealand, and it’s not generally covered in the travel journals.
Maybe because it’s relatively close to Auckland, I’m not sure. But all I can say it’s absolutely beautiful and so uncrowded.
We headed south to Matapouri, a super quiet town on a bay near the coast.
Elwin, Angelique and I were all hungry, so we stopped in by a shanty shack place advertising seafood. It is here I made the classic mistake on expecting something and then getting something entirely different.
I see a “red snapper” on the menu. I adore red snapper, so I order it. The menu said nothing like “broiled” or “fried” next to red snapper. I began to have misgivings about my order but let it go as we waited outside. I also ordered “medium chips,” and I knew those were what we Americans call French fries.
When the call came for me, “ROD,” was heard, I went to the counter to pick up my order. When I saw it, I knew I blew it! My newspaper-wrapped red snapper was deep fried, in a fish and chips fashion. I accepted it as if this was what I expected, but truth be known, I don’t like fried fish very much. I wish it were broiled or baked. And then there is the issue of the chips, which Americans know as French Fries. As an American, I asked for some ketchup. The response was, “$2 for the tomato sauce (that is Kiwi for ketchup).” I can’t imagine paying that much for a little ketchup! So I just went without. While this wasn’t my ideal meal experience, I just went with the situation and tried to enjoy as much as I could! In another country, Argentina, there was another peculiar custom at many restaurants. Often a restaurant adds a surcharge for your silverware! I guess one saves by bringing their own?
All taken together, our day meandering down the coast of New Zealand’s North Island was an unexpected slice of paradise!
Then it’s on to Auckland. We’ve booked a room at the Juicy Hotel in the heart of the city. We depart tomorrow, later in the day.
Today we are to embark on the best way to experience New Zealand’s Bay of Islands – by sailboat! Instead of buying a ticket on a noisy, crowded dolphin chaser, I researched a much more private, quiet and up close way to witness this jewel. The Phantom, a 50-foot C&C 1980’s racing sailboat, will be a perfect way to enjoy a day on the bay. It’s got a limit of 10 guests. So there’s no way this is going to become some commercialized catamaran with 30 or more people. Even better, a gourmet brunch served on deck is included.
I’ll be able to do all the summertime things I craved. Sailing. Enjoying warm breezes. Palm trees. And diving off the deck into a lagoon! And an unexpected bonus – we’d arrived at the start of Race Week. Dozens of big sailboats from all over New Zealand are here, and will be competing as we sail today. As a life long sailboat racer this is totally exciting!
Today is absolutely beautiful. Sunny right at day break. I’m up early. We’ll need to meet the Phantom at the pier over at Russell. I was up much earlier than Elwin and Angelique – so I’m taking the ferry across and having my breakfast on the waterfront. I’ll meet them over there.
The ferry ride is refreshing. The fair weather clouds are going to burn off. There are a few racing yachts heading out to practice prior to the regatta. Further out in the Bay, maybe two miles away, is another cruise ship.
Soon the Phantom arrives at the pier and we go aboard along with a few other guests and their kids. We’re introduced to hosts Rick and Robin and then cast off the lines. We motor out onto the bay. Sails are unfurled, halyards are hoisted. Sheets were trimmed, and we are under way!
Racers lining up to start
Dozens of racing sailboats continue to gathering near the starting area. Wow, it’s not long before the race starts. We have front row seats! An orchestrated chaos begins as the 40-50 foot boats swirled around seeking advantage at the start. Shouts are heard as right-of-way is being called. And suddenly all boats swing round in parallel toward the starting line. Boom! A gun cracks. The race has begun! The Kiwi boats are very first rate – they are all late model racing boats. We took some tacks back and forth across the bay to check things out. Hundreds of gannets, circling in the sky overhead, suddenly dove into the sea, hunting fish. We also glimpse a few small penguins floating on the bay.
Soon some of the racers sail right by us. We’re staying just out of the racing area.
This was such a treat for me! Front row seats seeing how it is done in New Zealand.
It was a perfect day for a sailboat race. Plenty of wind for the competition, not so much to be risky for anyone. I’m just so excited to see so many sailboats and so many of them cutting edge.
There are a number of close encounters, accompanied by some right-of-way shouting, which is just like here at home in the USA.
We leave the regatta to explore more of the bay. I spent my time getting to know Rick and Robin, and the other guests.
Rick has owned Phantom since the 1980s. He’s lived in New York, and met Robin in the Caribbean. They’ve sailed Phantom around Puerto Rico, through the Panama Canal, and have crossed the Pacific a number of times. There are only three C&C 50’s in the world, and one of the others is in New Zealand. Rick helped bring it here. The other is in the American Great Lakes region.
Also on board are an Australian couple and a family from Holland. That meant Elwin and Angelique could speak in their native tongue today! We did a number of tacks back and forth across the bay, and watched dolphins and more penguins, and more gannets dive-bombing for their lunch.
More wildlife comes to see us! I saw spouts. I see fins! A pod of dolphins, maybe two dozen, are coming our way! I’ve had dolphins ride the bow wave on a sailboat before, even at night. But never this many. I have to try a video. You can see the sailboat race in the distance if you look closely!
Up next is a break and picnic! Rick sails Phantom past a headland, to an island with a small bay complete with a beach. We drop anchor, and soon up from the galley comes a fabulous picnic fit for a king. We have cheese, fruit, home made bread and treats, meats. Yum!
Then it’s time to explore the island a little. Some embark by dinghy and a few of us, myself included, cannot resist the urge to swim to shore. So, I dive off the deck, plunging right in. This is what I’ve dreamed of! On shore there is a trail to a hilltop with a 360-degree view. I don’t have any shoes, so I’m uncertain if I should try especially with this plantar fasciittis dogging me! But I give it a shot. Totally unexpectedly, I find to my delight it is a comfortable feeling after all. The only trouble is on the hot steps at the top.
We depart the delightful island and spend a couple more hours sailing. Back in Russell, we bid our goodbyes and then Angelique, Elwin and I relax on the Russell waterfront, toasting the day with a pint of ale.
It’s much busier now than in the morning. I definitely like the Bay of Islands! It’s got to be on your New Zealand bucket list!
I can’t imagine, but we are almost at the end of our trip. Only two days to go. Then, for me, it is back to winter in Portland, Oregon.
Mt Tarawera, at the end of Lake Rotomahana, split on both sides during its 1886 eruption.
Rotorua New Zealand was our next base camp. Rotorua sits on top of the country’s largest thermal system. Right inside the city of Rotorua, there are active geysers! And for hundreds of square kilometers around Rotorua, there are towns with mineral springs, mud pots, geysers, cracked mountains like Waimangu Volcanic Valley – it’s very evident that Planet Earth’s violent, and sometimes beautiful, geologic forces shaped, and are shaping the very area under your feet!
We were really interested in experiencing some active geology first hand. We’d heard Waimangu Volcanic Valley was pretty interesting. We drove out there. Not knowing much about it, I was not prepared for what I was about to witness!
A spring along the hike
We arrived at the park entrance, and picked up the guide pamphlet. It is a self-guided hike assisted at certain points by a shuttle. Reading the introduction, my jaw practically hit the ground.
This is a 17-kilometer-long valley. It contains the world’s largest hot spring, and once contained the Waimangu Geyser, the world’s tallest, reaching 1,500 feet! That’s taller than the Empire State Building. In fact, the entire valley was created in ONE DAY!
Steaming hot mineral deposits
That’s right. If you can imagine. This was not fiction written from a novelist’s pen. It actually happened. This valley was someone’s ranch, just rolling scrubland hills. Then without warning, on the evening of June 10, 1886, Mount Tarawera, at the end of the valley, split open and erupted. Immediately following no less than 22 volcanic craters along the 17-kilometer valley were born. Plus a gigantic thermal geyser and hot spring area formed. It was the first time in recorded history mankind witnessed the birth of a geyser field!
The Tarawera volcano and craters of the Waimangu Volcanic Valley’s 1886 event are the sites of the largest eruption in New Zealand’s recorded history.
At the time, in 1886, the valley was devastated just like Mount St. Helens. What was once a lush forest with vibrant wildlife was laid to waste, nothing was spared. Atomic bomb shock waves flattened everything and ensuing pyroclastic flows atomized what was left. It was not long before the world learned of the fantastic event and tourists flocked to see the spectacle.
Until 1904, there was a building for viewing the geyser, and then another eruption destroyed it and soon after the geyser ceased. As with Mount St. Helens, life began to retake the moonscape, and within a few decades, the valley regained its lush look. Except for the fact that there remained a few geysers, a huge lake, steaming rivers, hot springs, and hills that seem to smoke!
This geyser reached 1,500 feet!
Today visitors can hike the valley all the way to the end, where they can take a boat to see more amazing geologic features on the lake formed by the eruption. From that end point, a shuttle moves you back to the start.
You can make out craters, still smoking, in the forest
All along the way, there are more than two dozen amazing sights to witness!
The river flowing through the valley is filled with hot springs along its path. So, as you walk along and witness its flow, you’ll see how mineral deposits shape everything.
There are beautiful bird songs from bell birds and tuis. In the lake, I can count 91 black swans milling about. It becomes hot. Sometimes, you can smell sulphur from the steaming vents.
If you are seeking some hiking, exercise and really want an in depth up front experience of what earth can do, this valley will not disappoint!
With the meteorologists blowing the forecasts day after day, I decide to forgo hiking the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, fearing repeated pestilence! Tongariro National Park area forecasts were for it to improve after midday, and I simply was not going to take a risk of getting stuck out there. But Elwin took his chances, suited up and boarded the early morning shuttle to the trailhead. His path would take him directly across Mordor along the base of Mount Doom, known outside Lord of Rings fiction as Mt. Ngaurahoe.
Angelique and I would instead hike a trail stretching Whakapapa Village, on Ruapehu, to Mount Doom. This way, we would be able to turn around if squalls materialized. This day dawned exactly as yesterday, with clouds and bright sky all at once. With Elwin gone, we headed to Whakapapa Village and began our hike.
The trail wound across red tussock fields and down into tree lined creek beds. It was 40 degrees Fahrenheit, and the breeze, for now, was light. Optimistically I wore shorts, and a baseball cap, and wore a soft shell. I had a ski hat in my pack, but no serious rain gear.
Rain threatened right from the start and I could see it was snowing higher up on Ruapehu. It was predicted to gradually get better during the day. But I just didn’t trust. Angelique was very positive and encouraging. That was good, but she didn’t have gear to withstand an alpine squall should it come, and foolishly neither did I. I had the gear at the Rainbow Motel, I just didn’t bring enough today. I kept thinking how it was summer – forcing the issue!
There were a few people out hiking. Including a USA geology student group of perhaps 20. Here, as elsewhere, the trail is incredibly maintained and developed. It’s been somehow graveled and sometimes has long stretches of wooden platforms.
While we can see Mt. Ruapehu, and we know where Ngauruhoe should be, it stays cloaked in clouds. There is snow on the higher slopes from yesterday’s storms. Blue sky comes and goes.
Every so often the wind would pick up and I’d get pelted with rain drops, and fear some drenching downpour might come. But then, it’d pass by and we could see down into the valleys for miles. When the wind did build sometimes I got very chilled.
As I was still nursing plantar fasciitis my pace was inhibited and it wasn’t long before Angelique pulled far ahead. After 90 minutes I reached the top of a rise and when I got there, I could see all the way to Mount Doom. And, Angelique probably a half mile ahead! I knew with my foot pain I probably shouldn’t keep going. But I worried for her – she wasn’t dressed right, should a real drencher pass through! She was too far for yelling. Then something happened that nailed the point home.
Waiting for Mount Doom…
The wind built, and it started sleeting. My baseball wasn’t enough. The wind blowing on my forehead in between my hat and glasses made my skin feel numb. Shit! I thought. Reluctantly I started back…feeling just wrong. And in disbelief that it’s SUMMER! I was thinking, I might as well be on Mt. Hood, Oregon right now! It was so true. Sleet falling in sheets all around. Mount Doom would not show itself.
Another hiker similarly dressed passes and pauses – he starts putting on the additional leggings he has in his pack. I thought to myself, I am a guide and I KNOW BETTER! I have been in the Himalayas, Andes, Alps, Adirondacks, the Rockies and Cascades. What was I thinking? Baaahhh!
Then the squall passes and it warms up a bit. Maybe I dodged a bullet!
I pause to have some water and a power bar from my pack. It’s really beautiful up here. Then I notice my ski hat! It was in there all this time and would have made a difference. But I forgot about it. Well, I’m wearing it now!
As I sit replenishing my energy, something wonderful happens. It is the first time Mount Ngaurahoe appears in 100% full glory. Wow! It really is a perfect cone.
So beautiful, draped in a fresh blanket of snow. I’m completely taken by the sight!
Then Angelique appears…and wonders what happened? She seems just fine – I just say my foot plus lack of gear made me rethink. But she’d wanted to press on! I felt guilty and maybe unsure. But we started back. It was on the way back I knew I really needed to turn around.
I was still experiencing foot pain, so, sadly this was today’s limit. I don’t understand, as I was able to go six hours in Abel Tasman National Park – yes with some pain, but today was worse. Pretty frustrating.
I was glad, though, to catch a glimpse of that mountain. Wow.
Back at the Rainbow Motel we find Elwin has already returned, and he says it was the best part of the trip so far. Yes, he had to hike through a foot of snow in spots, but it was so incredible to be up close to so many volcanic features. It was a real black Mordor up there, without living things – just a volcanic wasteland. There were amazing blue lakes, but also steaming fumeroles. Just like in Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings. I hope to get his pictures!
Well, our next destination will be Rotorua and the geysers in that area…
ut 90 minutes on the entire hull.
Cabin Fever Chronicles - Getting Outdoors with Rod 