Sailing Greece’s Cyclades Islands: Syros

2 01 2025
Hoisting a cold one at the marina cafe in Finikas harbor

With a stiff wind over our stern, we headed to Syros. Syros is a blend of the urban life of the city and quiet coastal villages. Its primary city, Ermoupoli, is the regional capital with a rich history, opera house, two cathedrals and port large enough for ship building and repairs. We spent two nights on Syros. I rented a car so we could get around. Since my insurance doesn’t cover overseas rentals, I had to opt for the insurance offered by the rental car company. We paid for it out of the group kitty.

Gina looking good!

Rather than dock in the city, George chose what was to become my favorite port of this trip, Finikas. Finikas is worthy of an Ernest Hemingway novel. The marina, with showers and a cafe, sits at one end of a 600-yard long semi circle harbor. From there, you can walk the boutique hotel and taverna lined waterfront to which the cutest brightly colored fishing boats are tied. As you stroll, occasional steps lead down to the the narrow beach and its free umbrellas. Sailboats swing at anchor. Being so late in the season, no tavernas were more than 25% filled at dinnertime. The atmosphere was peaceful bliss.

For supper, some chose to visit Ermoupoli, but I couldn’t resist the opportunity to check out the waterfront restaurants at Finikas Port! The attraction was too much. When the time came I set out wandering along the waterfront, passing fishermen mending their nets, a marine supplier, and checking out menus as I went.

I settled upon an open air spot with lots of open tables. The server was incredibly pleasant. I sipped a glass of red wine and awaited my meal. And then, my luck turned gold and just as I hoped, the magic happened!

A trio of local musician friends sat down right across from me and began practicing, whilst waiting for their own meal! THIS is what travel is all about. It is priceless moments like this!

The following day we did a little exploration of Ermoupoli. We strolled the steep streets, with their pastel painted Italian inspired buildings, checking out shops, and spending a little time at the Apollo Theatre, built in 1864. More music! A pianist was practicing!

Then it was time to explore Ermoupoli’s cathedrals. One of them was closed, but I found a cliffside restaurant with a commanding view just a short walk away! Terrific lunch spot.

Next, we drove to St. Nicholas Church, a cathedral built in 1870. A Greek-Australian wedding was taking place!

If I had to pick favorite stops on this voyage, I would choose Ano Koufonisi, and Finikas, on Syros! Love love love them!


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Sailing in Greece: Naxos – Ancient Ruins, Winding Streets and Castles

26 12 2024

From Ano Koufonisi, we navigated to our next destination, Naxos. Naxos is the largest of the Cyclades Islands. It boasts a working harbor with multiple ferries and fishing boats, a bustling waterfront with many restaurants, cafes and shops, a hill top castle with rooftop restaurant nearby, and some ancient Greek ruins to explore. As of 2024, the island’s population was just over 20,000.

Gliding towards our marina, we passed by some smaller naval ships and Running on Waves, a “boutique barquentine” for vacationers, one which we’d run into later in our cruise. It has a capacity of 42 passengers total. I bet it’s nice!

Once docked, George gave us ideas on things to check out. There is the Apollo’s Gate, the waterfront, an ancient Greek Dionysus temple, walking up to The Kastro Venetian Castle, and perhaps a group dinner with music and smashing plates at the Flamingo Restaurant.

I definitely wanted to see the temple and walk about town. But I declined the Flamingo option, sensing an expensive and awkward tourist trap situation.

We all headed over to the Portara of Naxos, or Apollo’s Gate, part of the Temple of Apollo, which is easily reached along the waterfront. It’s free and has a nice view of the town, hillside neighborhoods, and the waterfront. And we had such nice weather!

The Temple of Apollo, an unfinished temple founded in the 6th Century BC, is one of the most pretty spots on the island. According Ancient Greek folklore, this is where Minoan Princess Ariadne was abandoned after helping her fiance Theseus kill the Minotaur at Crete. She got over it. She was later to marry Dionysus. As for us, we took the opportunity to snap some lovely images with the temple!

Myself and Ellie
Gina, Ellie, Sian, Nicole

Next, we climbed the winding walking streets, past shops and cafes, up to the 13th Century Kastro Venetian Castle and its rooftop cafe. Along the route we passed bougainvilleas, as well as an art gallery and 16th Century Catholic Church.

We took an elevator up to the rooftop cafe, and enjoyed a leisurely lunch. When done, several of us wanted to take a taxi to see the Temple of Dionysus. The taxi dropped us off about a block from the entrance, because there was a construction truck blocking the road. When we got there, the temple was deserted and closed. Turned out it closed early as it was shoulder season! We called the taxi back, and tails between our legs, returned to the marina. It was late afternoon.

My evening turned out to be a fruitful solo exploration. I left the others to dine at the Flamingo, where plate smashing is part of the menu. Instead, I struck out on my own, wandering back pathways in search of a unique experience, which from my personal observation, is hard to find as a group. As I wound my way through the labyrinth of walkways, I checked a number of menus as I passed. Then one cafe struck my fancy. Reasonably priced, family owned, and with a back deck overlooking the waterfront beyond! I secured a small table by the edge, and was promptly offered a menu by a most agreeable server. I had a roast chicken breast with potato and vegetable, accompanies by a couple glasses of red wine. All for 12 Euros!

Naxos waterfront from the deck of Big Blue.

Afterward, I strolled the length of the waterfront, then retired to relax on the foredeck of our sailboat, Big Blue. From there, I could hear the Flamingo. A loud lute player, smashing plates, plus a cacophony of laughter. From the boat it sounded fine. Out on our boat, I was all set. I had a full moon and gentle breeze blowing through the rigging of docked sailboats. Later I was to find out from those who went to the Flamingo that it was hard to talk with the lute so loud! It got mixed reviews. Some liked it and others said they spent too much.

Our next destination was the infamous island of Mykonos. Its reputation as a hedonistic hard partying late night scene had me dreading the place! I was set to get hold of myself and endure. Little did I know how an alternative activity would completely change my time there and become a highlight of the trip!


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Sailing the Greek Cyclades: Ano Koufonisi

21 12 2024

Leaving Amorgos behind, we set sail for the “Small Cyclades” islands, specifically, Ano Koufonisi. These out-of-the-way islands offer a magical mix of quiet beaches, turquoise waters, delicious food, cultural authenticity, and completely laid-back vibe. None have more than 500 residents. OK back to sailing! With more wind, we could travel under sail only. George showed us a few things about skippering the boat, and Katherine, assisted by Sian, winched out the genoa.

George gives us a “how to” on some of the boat controls.

Grind Katherine! Grind!

It was a gentle breeze, very pleasant. It would bring us to a lunch spot / snorkeling cove. This particular one had totally clear turquoise / sapphire colored water! It was completely perfect for swimming and snorkeling.

It wasn’t long before we decided it was time to play some music. Ellie turned out to be a dancing queen! There wasn’t anything she turned down. We played B-52s, Trampled by Turtles, Shakira, oldies from Nu Shooz and Rod Stewart, Culture Club and more.

Once underwater, I was amazed how far I could see. The bottom was completely soft white sand.

There were a number of what at first looked like caterpiller tractor tracks in the sand. It wasn’t long before I realized each led to an anchor. So these “tracks” were left by the anchor chain moving back and forth across the sand! Changing my view from down to forward, I was rewarded by a school of 40+ fish lazily swimming by. Each was I guessed 8 inches long.

It was a warm day. When we reached our Koufonisi marina, I looked around and didn’t see much shade. Time for sun screen! The harbor and town are beautiful. The island only has about 450 residents.

George told about highlights. One suggestion was to walk the shoreline. Along the way there are secluded coves, beaches and a couple of cafes for a drink. Koufonisi is a very small island. No cars. Very laid back. One can walk around it in a day. I took my backpack and my book and headed out. Everywhere, purely clear waters. I passed by several isolated coves. And then, I spied something perfect! A tree shading a single beach chair by the pathway. So I sat down, relaxed, and read for a while. People strolled by, boats plied the waters. Some folks paused to test the waters. If you walk far enough, you may not have to share your beach with anyone! It was so beautiful!

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We all loved Ano Koufonisi. Toward the evening, we found a hillside restaurant with a harbor view, where we sat down and ate dinner as the sun set. Walking back, the moon had risen, bathing the village in silvery light.

I chose to visit Greece in late September, which turns out to be a terrific choice. The blistering summer heat is gone. So too are the throngs or tourists. Some of the hotels and restaurants are already closed for the off season, while others are uncrowded. It’s very nice.

It was hard to leave. Another day on this island would be great. But we had an agenda – Naxos was our next island. Here is myself, all morning grizzled pre-shave, as we depart the next morning! We’re gliding along a Mediterranean blue waters. Life on a sailboat is tough…


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Sailing the Greek Cyclades: Amorgos

20 12 2024

Departing Ios, we motor-sailed to Katapola Harbor on the Island of Amorgos. Whilst heading in, I noticed other sailboats just like us, all arriving to spend the night here. Cruise ships cannot dock here as it’s too small. But ferries pay brief visits to drop off and pick up passengers and vehicles.

The harbor village is pretty compact – it only goes a street or two up the hill behind the marina. But there are enough restaurants, shops, cafes and markets for us. The island’s total population in 2021 was 1,961. Once docked, George told us about highlights and arranged for us to meet for dinner at one of the restaurants. It’s busy for such small village, with sailboats from New Zealand, Belgium, Poland, Holland, and France.

Amorgos is long and skinny with high hills running its spine. Two highlights are the mountain top Hora (village) with its famous windmills, and the cliff-hanging seaside Panagia Hozoviotissa Greek Orthodox monastery. George explained that while there is a bus system on Amorgos, the most time-efficient way to see everything and get back for dinner would be to rent cars. So we rented. I volunteered to drive – and surprises awaited! I had 4 in my car and the thing was as stubborn as a mule. The Amorgos roads consist of steep switchbacks climbing up and down all over the place. And upon every tight uphill turn, this car would just about stall in protest, then all of the sudden catch up with itself and zoom forward! After a few such turns I started yelling, “Go Donkey GO!” And I palm spanked the center column like a horseman urging his beast of burden forward. Everybody squealed with giggles and laughter.

The monastery, built in 1066, clings to the cliffside 800 feet above the Aegean. An impressive sight! Accessing it requires 25 minutes climbing a very well maintained hand chiseled and steep staircase. I was thankful for the sea breeze! We all made it up there.

The inside of the monastery was, well, steep, short and tight all at once. In other words, cramped. The stairs, wide enough for one, climbed quickly and the low ceiling required ducking to enter rooms. I wasn’t truly impressed. The worship enclave was stuffed with hastily arranged and abandoned artifacts. I was anxious to leave. The view was incredible! The cliffs plunged all the way to the sea.

Our next stop was the Hora. Gina, Ellie and I took a stroll around, then had some refreshments at a cafe overlooking the windmills. Then it was time to get back to port. We had a harborside table, outside, and it was very comfortable as dusk gave way to the evening! It was a leisurely paced meal. I chose a wonderful starter – Greek seasoned mussels. The main was a spicy spaghetti, slightly cheesy, creamy, with lots of veggies and red peppers, which I was quite fond of.

Here at the Katapola waterfront I captured some images of our boat! Inside and out. It has a beautiful blue hull and the galley was very nice!

Tomorrow we set sail for one of the “Small Cyclades” islands, the very very small and jewel-like Ano Koufonisi!


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Sailing in New Zealand’s Bay of Islands

2 04 2013

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Phantom, our C&C 50, arrives!

Sails set, we head out

Sails set, we head out

Today we are to embark on the best way to experience New Zealand’s Bay of Islands – by sailboat! Instead of buying a ticket on a noisy, crowded dolphin chaser, I researched a much more private, quiet and up close way to witness this jewel. The Phantom, a 50-foot C&C 1980’s racing sailboat, will be a perfect way to enjoy a day on the bay. It’s got a limit of 10 guests. So there’s no way this is going to become some commercialized catamaran with 30 or more people. Even better, a gourmet brunch served on deck is included.

I’ll be able to do all the summertime things I craved. Sailing. Enjoying warm breezes. Palm trees. And diving off the deck into a lagoon! And an unexpected bonus – we’d arrived at the start of Race Week. Dozens of big sailboats from all over New Zealand are here, and will be competing as we sail today. As a life long sailboat racer this is totally exciting!

Today is absolutely beautiful. Sunny right at day break. I’m up early. We’ll need to meet the Phantom at the pier over at Russell. I was up much earlier than Elwin and Angelique – so I’m taking the ferry across and having my breakfast on the waterfront. I’ll meet them over there.

The ferry ride is refreshing. The fair weather clouds are going to burn off. There are a few racing yachts heading out to practice prior to the regatta. Further out in the Bay, maybe two miles away, is another cruise ship.

Soon the Phantom arrives at the pier and we go aboard along with a few other guests and their kids. We’re introduced to hosts Rick and Robin and then cast off the lines. We motor out onto the bay. Sails are unfurled, halyards are hoisted. Sheets were trimmed, and we are under way!

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Racers lining up to start

Dozens of racing sailboats continue to gathering near the starting area. Wow, it’s not long before the race starts. We have front row seats! An orchestrated chaos begins as the 40-50 foot boats swirled around seeking advantage at the start. Shouts are heard as right-of-way is being called. And suddenly all boats swing round in parallel toward the starting line. Boom! A gun cracks. The race has begun!  The Kiwi boats are very first rate – they are all late model racing boats. We took some tacks back and forth across the bay to check things out. Hundreds of gannets, circling in the sky overhead, suddenly dove into the sea, hunting fish. We also glimpse a few small penguins floating on the bay.

Soon some of the racers sail right by us. We’re staying just out of the racing area.IMG_0337

This was such a treat for me! Front row seats seeing how it is done in New Zealand.

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It was a perfect day for a sailboat race. Plenty of wind for the competition, not so much to be risky for anyone. I’m just so excited to see so many sailboats and so many of them cutting edge.

There are a number of close encounters, accompanied by some right-of-way shouting, which is just like here at home in the USA.

IMG_0341We leave the regatta to explore more of the bay. I spent my time getting to know Rick and Robin, and the other guests.

Rick has owned Phantom since the 1980s. He’s lived in New York, and met Robin in the Caribbean. They’ve sailed Phantom around Puerto Rico, through the Panama Canal, and have crossed the Pacific a number of times. There are only three C&C 50’s in the world, and one of the others is in New Zealand. Rick helped bring it here. The other is in the American Great Lakes region.

IMG_0332Also on board are an Australian couple and a family from Holland. That meant Elwin and Angelique could speak in their native tongue today! We did a number of tacks back and forth across the bay, and watched dolphins and more penguins, and more gannets dive-bombing for their lunch.

More wildlife comes to see us! I saw spouts. I see fins! A pod of dolphins, maybe two dozen, are coming our way! I’ve had dolphins ride the bow wave on a sailboat before, even at night.  But never this many. I have to try a video. You can see the sailboat race in the distance if you look closely!

Up next is a break and picnic! Rick sails Phantom past a headland, to an island with a small bay complete with a beach. We drop anchor, and soon up from the galley comes a fabulous picnic fit for a king. We have cheese, fruit, home made bread and treats, meats. Yum!

Then it’s time to explore the island a little. Some embark by dinghy and a few of us, myself included, cannot resist the urge to swim to shore. So, I dive off the deck, plunging right in. This is what I’ve dreamed of! On shore there is a trail to a hilltop with a 360-degree view. I don’t have any shoes, so I’m uncertain if I should try especially with this plantar fasciittis dogging me! But I give it a shot. Totally unexpectedly, I find to my delight it is a comfortable feeling after all. The only trouble is on the hot steps at the top.

We depart the delightful island and spend a couple more hours sailing. Back in Russell, we bid our goodbyes and then Angelique, Elwin and I relax on the Russell waterfront, toasting the day with a pint of ale. IMG_3503

It’s much busier now than in the morning. I definitely like the Bay of Islands! It’s got to be on your New Zealand bucket list!

I can’t imagine, but we are almost at the end of our trip. Only two days to go. Then, for me, it is back to winter in Portland, Oregon.


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Bay of Islands, New Zealand – Russell and Paihaia

27 03 2013

Palm Tree Paihaia

YES!

My hike on Mount Ruapehu, during the quest for Mount Doom a few days ago, with its cold wind and hail, served to spike my desire for warm sandy beaches and days spent doing nothing at all, relaxing under palms, soaking in the warmth and blue seas. So I could hardly wait to arrive at Paihaia in New Zealand’s Bay of Islands! I was also anxious to visit the hamlet of Russell across the bay.

The Bay of Islands sits in a sub tropical latitude and draws lots of visitors. Kayaking, snorkeling, whale watching and sailing are popular activities. It’s got warm tropical breezes. Seaside sun-drenched Paihaia, with warm breezes, boat tours and ample lodging, is a good choice for a base camp for exploring this area.

Our suite at the Dolphin Motel was modern, with a dishwasher, and an eight minute walk from the beach in Paihaia. Paihaia is a small town catering to tourists and a vacation home for Kiwis.

There is a two mile stretch of beach meandering in either direction from the town’s centrally located pier – all accessible by walkway. Kayak rental shacks lie along the way. I stopped in and grabbed a boat for two hours for $15.00.

Paihia kayaking

My quickie kayak tour near Paihia

Paihaia has its fair share of touristy shops and touristy boats taking people to swim with the dolphins. But don’t get any ideas that it’s some giant Cancun filled with fast food joints. Not here. It still retains a quiet atmosphere and home grown tourist trade. For example, I watched as a dinner boat prepared for the evening. The “Mom” was putting together an obviously labor intensive hand made meal for the two dozen or so guests. Yes, I did see a 1,000ft cruise ship anchored out in the bay. But only a few of its guests came in via its launches.

Elwin, Angelique and I arrived late in the afternoon and had a nice meal by the water. After a stroll by the water, we’d figure out what to do tomorrow. I knew that for me – all I wanted to do was to have no plans whatsoever, and just let my spirit decide and explore, poke around. No time in the car.

So morning arrives, and Elwin and Angelique have decided to get back in the car and drive all the way to the tip of New Zealand – some two hours distant. I could not fathom any more time in the car even if it meant some glorious maiden at journey’s end. All I wanted this day was to walk – to explore the Paihaia area and maybe Russell, across the Bay. And I wasn’t disappointed.

I left the Dolphin Motel about 8:15 a.m. and investigated the opportunities at the Paihaia pier. I saw a passenger ferry docked and inquired of its pilot what was the deal. She told me it’s real simple. The ferry goes back and forth between Paihaia and Russell all day and it’s $12 round trip. It’s about a 20-minute trip across.

Leaving Paihaia

That sounded great! So, I got on the 8:30 ferry and arrived in Russel before 9:00.

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Super cute Russell homes

Wow! Russell is a combination of Nantucket and Bermuda! It has the white washed super clean, neatly manicured gardens like Bermuda but the buildings are wooden like Nantucket. It looks historical because it is. Russell was the first European settlement in New Zealand.

And Bougainvillea flowering everywhere.IMG_0319  As it was still relatively early I was in the mood for breakfast.

One of my dreams all this trip was a quiet meal right on the sea. Russell offers exactly that!

The Russel waterfront is a beach with a walking friendly path right behind, tables, with a hotel or two and some eateries right there.

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IMG_0288After a little walk I settled on a breakfast joint and was treated to a wonderful breakfast! Only one hiccup. The tomato jar, which I thought was ketchup, had bbq sauce in it. So I got up to switch it for ketchup. No less than three steps away and my breakfast was gone! Snatched by aggressive seagulls waiting for anyone leaving their table alone!

I was only casually aware of the seagulls. Yet, they were keenly watching all the tables by the beach – ready to pounce on any unattended food!

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The staff at the cafe took pity on me, and gave me a replacement meal. Thank you!

Taking it slow, I watched as Russel opened its eyes to the day.

I had read in Lonely Planet about various boating activities in the area. You have a choice of snorkeling, dolphin watching, sailing, kayaking, swimming, even paragliding.

As I slowly had my breakfast and sipped coffee, I watched as the operators I read about made their way to the pier, and prepared for a day out. There were some charter sailboats, the dolphin quest boat, etc. Nothing seemed rushed. A fishing charter awaited its guests.

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Then sailboats began motoring out for a day on the bay, and two 100ft+ mega yachts came to anchor. I was super excited for tomorrow because I had arranged for us to sail a 50 foot C&C sloop on the bay! I am a lifelong sailer and I’d seen all the sailing in New Zealand – I wanted to do some of it for myself. Yesterday, on the road, I’d used Lonely Planet to reserve the Phantom, a beautiful red C&C 50.

Here’s their promotional video – pretty much captures it – swimming off the boat, and a yummy lunch, all day, including snorkeling gear for about $90 US. It will be great!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsuOBJqOT-Y


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