Sailing Greece’s Cyclades Islands: Syros

2 01 2025
Hoisting a cold one at the marina cafe in Finikas harbor

With a stiff wind over our stern, we headed to Syros. Syros is a blend of the urban life of the city and quiet coastal villages. Its primary city, Ermoupoli, is the regional capital with a rich history, opera house, two cathedrals and port large enough for ship building and repairs. We spent two nights on Syros. I rented a car so we could get around. Since my insurance doesn’t cover overseas rentals, I had to opt for the insurance offered by the rental car company. We paid for it out of the group kitty.

Gina looking good!

Rather than dock in the city, George chose what was to become my favorite port of this trip, Finikas. Finikas is worthy of an Ernest Hemingway novel. The marina, with showers and a cafe, sits at one end of a 600-yard long semi circle harbor. From there, you can walk the boutique hotel and taverna lined waterfront to which the cutest brightly colored fishing boats are tied. As you stroll, occasional steps lead down to the the narrow beach and its free umbrellas. Sailboats swing at anchor. Being so late in the season, no tavernas were more than 25% filled at dinnertime. The atmosphere was peaceful bliss.

For supper, some chose to visit Ermoupoli, but I couldn’t resist the opportunity to check out the waterfront restaurants at Finikas Port! The attraction was too much. When the time came I set out wandering along the waterfront, passing fishermen mending their nets, a marine supplier, and checking out menus as I went.

I settled upon an open air spot with lots of open tables. The server was incredibly pleasant. I sipped a glass of red wine and awaited my meal. And then, my luck turned gold and just as I hoped, the magic happened!

A trio of local musician friends sat down right across from me and began practicing, whilst waiting for their own meal! THIS is what travel is all about. It is priceless moments like this!

The following day we did a little exploration of Ermoupoli. We strolled the steep streets, with their pastel painted Italian inspired buildings, checking out shops, and spending a little time at the Apollo Theatre, built in 1864. More music! A pianist was practicing!

Then it was time to explore Ermoupoli’s cathedrals. One of them was closed, but I found a cliffside restaurant with a commanding view just a short walk away! Terrific lunch spot.

Next, we drove to St. Nicholas Church, a cathedral built in 1870. A Greek-Australian wedding was taking place!

If I had to pick favorite stops on this voyage, I would choose Ano Koufonisi, and Finikas, on Syros! Love love love them!





Sailing the Greek Cyclades: Ano Koufonisi

21 12 2024

Leaving Amorgos behind, we set sail for the “Small Cyclades” islands, specifically, Ano Koufonisi. These out-of-the-way islands offer a magical mix of quiet beaches, turquoise waters, delicious food, cultural authenticity, and completely laid-back vibe. None have more than 500 residents. OK back to sailing! With more wind, we could travel under sail only. George showed us a few things about skippering the boat, and Katherine, assisted by Sian, winched out the genoa.

George gives us a “how to” on some of the boat controls.

Grind Katherine! Grind!

It was a gentle breeze, very pleasant. It would bring us to a lunch spot / snorkeling cove. This particular one had totally clear turquoise / sapphire colored water! It was completely perfect for swimming and snorkeling.

It wasn’t long before we decided it was time to play some music. Ellie turned out to be a dancing queen! There wasn’t anything she turned down. We played B-52s, Trampled by Turtles, Shakira, oldies from Nu Shooz and Rod Stewart, Culture Club and more.

Once underwater, I was amazed how far I could see. The bottom was completely soft white sand.

There were a number of what at first looked like caterpiller tractor tracks in the sand. It wasn’t long before I realized each led to an anchor. So these “tracks” were left by the anchor chain moving back and forth across the sand! Changing my view from down to forward, I was rewarded by a school of 40+ fish lazily swimming by. Each was I guessed 8 inches long.

It was a warm day. When we reached our Koufonisi marina, I looked around and didn’t see much shade. Time for sun screen! The harbor and town are beautiful. The island only has about 450 residents.

George told about highlights. One suggestion was to walk the shoreline. Along the way there are secluded coves, beaches and a couple of cafes for a drink. Koufonisi is a very small island. No cars. Very laid back. One can walk around it in a day. I took my backpack and my book and headed out. Everywhere, purely clear waters. I passed by several isolated coves. And then, I spied something perfect! A tree shading a single beach chair by the pathway. So I sat down, relaxed, and read for a while. People strolled by, boats plied the waters. Some folks paused to test the waters. If you walk far enough, you may not have to share your beach with anyone! It was so beautiful!

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We all loved Ano Koufonisi. Toward the evening, we found a hillside restaurant with a harbor view, where we sat down and ate dinner as the sun set. Walking back, the moon had risen, bathing the village in silvery light.

I chose to visit Greece in late September, which turns out to be a terrific choice. The blistering summer heat is gone. So too are the throngs or tourists. Some of the hotels and restaurants are already closed for the off season, while others are uncrowded. It’s very nice.

It was hard to leave. Another day on this island would be great. But we had an agenda – Naxos was our next island. Here is myself, all morning grizzled pre-shave, as we depart the next morning! We’re gliding along a Mediterranean blue waters. Life on a sailboat is tough…