Sailing the Greek Cyclades: Amorgos

20 12 2024

Departing Ios, we motor-sailed to Katapola Harbor on the Island of Amorgos. Whilst heading in, I noticed other sailboats just like us, all arriving to spend the night here. Cruise ships cannot dock here as it’s too small. But ferries pay brief visits to drop off and pick up passengers and vehicles.

The harbor village is pretty compact – it only goes a street or two up the hill behind the marina. But there are enough restaurants, shops, cafes and markets for us. The island’s total population in 2021 was 1,961. Once docked, George told us about highlights and arranged for us to meet for dinner at one of the restaurants. It’s busy for such small village, with sailboats from New Zealand, Belgium, Poland, Holland, and France.

Amorgos is long and skinny with high hills running its spine. Two highlights are the mountain top Hora (village) with its famous windmills, and the cliff-hanging seaside Panagia Hozoviotissa Greek Orthodox monastery. George explained that while there is a bus system on Amorgos, the most time-efficient way to see everything and get back for dinner would be to rent cars. So we rented. I volunteered to drive – and surprises awaited! I had 4 in my car and the thing was as stubborn as a mule. The Amorgos roads consist of steep switchbacks climbing up and down all over the place. And upon every tight uphill turn, this car would just about stall in protest, then all of the sudden catch up with itself and zoom forward! After a few such turns I started yelling, “Go Donkey GO!” And I palm spanked the center column like a horseman urging his beast of burden forward. Everybody squealed with giggles and laughter.

The monastery, built in 1066, clings to the cliffside 800 feet above the Aegean. An impressive sight! Accessing it requires 25 minutes climbing a very well maintained hand chiseled and steep staircase. I was thankful for the sea breeze! We all made it up there.

The inside of the monastery was, well, steep, short and tight all at once. In other words, cramped. The stairs, wide enough for one, climbed quickly and the low ceiling required ducking to enter rooms. I wasn’t truly impressed. The worship enclave was stuffed with hastily arranged and abandoned artifacts. I was anxious to leave. The view was incredible! The cliffs plunged all the way to the sea.

Our next stop was the Hora. Gina, Ellie and I took a stroll around, then had some refreshments at a cafe overlooking the windmills. Then it was time to get back to port. We had a harborside table, outside, and it was very comfortable as dusk gave way to the evening! It was a leisurely paced meal. I chose a wonderful starter – Greek seasoned mussels. The main was a spicy spaghetti, slightly cheesy, creamy, with lots of veggies and red peppers, which I was quite fond of.

Here at the Katapola waterfront I captured some images of our boat! Inside and out. It has a beautiful blue hull and the galley was very nice!

Tomorrow we set sail for one of the “Small Cyclades” islands, the very very small and jewel-like Ano Koufonisi!





Sailing Greek’s Cyclades Islands: Ios

14 12 2024
A ferry arrives in our cozy harbor at sunset. From the Volcano Bar.

In September 2024 I undertook a 10-day sailboat adventure with Intrepid Travel in the Greek Cyclades Islands. I’ve been a sailor since I was six-years old. I’ve cruised and raced on everything from dinghys to 12-Meters. But I always dreamed of cruising overseas, and one of my top bucket list destinations is Greece. Experiencing the islands by sailboat allows explorations of intimate places and cultural experiences the big cruise ships due to size and sheer numbers of guests cannot offer.

This experience is not for everyone, but 100% perfect for me. There are no casinos, water parks or black tie dinners. On this trip we had a 55-ft sloop with George, our captain. We were 8 women and two men. Some were single, others were married without spouse, and there was a mother and daughter. We were a mix of American, Australian, Australian England resident, and Iranian now Australian. We were complete strangers all excited to become a team. We had shared cabins each with its own bath. We shopped for breakfast and lunch food and made it on board. We all took a hand at sailing. Our days typically began with breakfast, shoving off about 8 or 9, stopping in a cove for snorkeling and lunch, and then arriving at our island destination about 3 p.m. Then explore, with a dinner out at a local restaurant. Each island offered its own highlights. All had beaches with lovely “Horas,” or main villages. Others had ancient Greek ruins, cliffside monasteries, lively downtowns, and marina districts which varied from cozy Hemingway novel waterfronts to bustling with cruise ships like Mykonos.

We first met on the waterfront on Santorini, then took a fast ferry to Ios, where Big Blue, our sailboat, awaited. The waterfront had maybe two dozen boats like ours, hailing from many countries. Sweden, Poland, Belgium, New Zealand, Singapore, Germany and many more. One was from Marblehead, Massachusetts! I lived there and raced there! Big Blue had two wheels and a generous cockpit.

Big Blue had many modern features which made it easy to sail. It had a remote controlled anchor system. It had a self-steering GPS guided navigation system. The toilets flushed with a push button. And the mainsail furled into the mast. The galley was well equipped and generously sized.

Once settled into our cabins, George held an orientation session. Here, he explained life aboard. As with all sailboats, they heel, so cabinet doors and drawers had special closures. Windows/hatches must be closed when sailing. Loose items must be off tables. There were 3 coolers/refrigerators, a radio, stove, oven, kitchen sink. When conditions get rough, always hold on to something when moving about.

One of the most important items to get settled right away is the group Kitty. On most Intrepid Travel trips, guests contribute to a group kitty, and the guide uses this to pay admission fees, certain transportation, tips for local guides and bus drivers, and such. On this trip, the kitty is used to pay for groceries and rental cars and such.

Once orientation was complete, George told us about activities on Ios. Strolling the waterfront. Grocery shopping and provisioning. Later, enjoy a sunset cocktail at the spectacular hillside Volcano Bar, and then dinner in the Hora at a restaurant called Lord Byron. It was a bit more than my budget to do all, but I went ahead and WOW it was worth all of it.

The sunset view at the Volcano Bar. You can take in the whole Aegean Sea with an infinity pool right in front. And 100% perfect weather!

So surreal at sunset!

Next, we took a bus down to the Hora, strolled the streets. Like all the Cyclades, the Chora is a village with white buildings up on a hill, with small, steep streets and walkways. And very neat and clean.

As dusk drew close, we headed to Lord Byron. Decorated in an eclectic cluttered style, each turn revealed something to feast my eyes. We ate with windows open and a moonlit view.

Completely over stuffed with full bellies, we waddled to the bus stop. The local bus takes about 10 minutes down the hill right to the marina where Big Blue was tied up. It wasn’t long before we were in our cabins fast asleep.

I awoke early and stepped out. Ios port had several cafes open early, and I checked out out.

It was chock full of fresh baked goods, and an espresso bar. I picked out a bakery item and was good to go!

We pulled out of the dock and were on our way to Amorgos, the next island. It was a beautiful morning with a light wind. We used the motor to make time.

Here’s a sailing video!

We stopped for lunch and a snorkel in a warm, windswept cove before arriving in Amorgos!





Palawan’s Bacuit Archipelago: Pocket Beaches, Palm Trees, Clear Waters and Snorkeling

18 06 2024

El Nido‘s Bacuit Archipelago is full of mysterious, vertically cliffed limestone islands – much like Vietnam’s Halong Bay. The similarity stops there. Here, it’s not only more beautiful, but there is so much more to do! And it’s much less polluted. At Halong Bay, hundreds of smoke-belching multi-level hotel-ships take tourists out for views, a meal and an overnight. But other than look at the islands, there isn’t much else to do. There are one or two beaches and hikes, and some paddling. The Bacuit Archipelago has the same islands, but they have hidden white sand beaches, palm treed islands, crystal clear lagoons, darn good snorkeling, and some world class blue green water for swimming! There are no cruise ships here. Outrigger boats head out from El Nido town early in the morning and take guests on tours to the islands. A full day includes a seafood lunch.

Sailing through these islands definitely reminded me of Halong Bay!

These islands have heavily eroded limestone faces – many very vertical. They are tree-covered. Passing through, you suddenly come across hidden “pocket beaches” lined with to-die-for palm trees. Some have openings to hidden lagoons behind. We stopped at one of these and kayaked into the lagoon. In there, the water was crystal clear and warm.

We did some snorkeling. I know the Palawan region has some of the most beautiful scuba diving in the world, such as the World Heritage awarded Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park. Unfortunately the snorkeling I experienced was pretty disappointing – as I’m an experienced snorkeler. When I was snorkeling off Belize on Lighthouse Reef, it was spectacular. And one of my peers, a marine biologist, told me Pacific snorkeling is on a whole higher dimension than Belize. Well, that is not what I experienced. I was frustrated that there was such snorkeling in the area but not where I was. I guess I have to go back! Where we snorkeled, in two separate places, it was pretty deserted and there was a lot of bleached coral. Don’t get me wrong, I did see fish, but not what I was expecting! I did see sea turtles. One, which I didn’t photograph, was as big as a coffee table. I saw clown fish, parrot fish, angel fish, and a clown fish being cleaned at at a “cleaning station.”

For me, the most amazing lifetime memory was our lunch spot! We stopped at Paradise Beach, on Cadlao Island. This place was just like Gilligan’s Island! With only two other boats, we had it to ourselves. The water is like NONE other. Let me tell you Halong Bay in Vietnam has NO such place. It is worth coming back. It truly is the beach of dreams. In fact, one of our tourist-mates has lived in Hawaii and has sailed from New Zealand to Hawaii – he said that this beach was the most beautiful he’d ever experienced!

I have to say I had no idea until I jumped off the boat into the water. There, I suddenly realized I had just splashed into the REAL DEAL! This really was the waters / beach people dream about and I was experiencing it!

This is it. I know, some love Cancun whilst others crave the Mediterranean beaches of France. But for me, those places, with thousands of people lined up shoulder to shoulder don’t do it. For me, this, this quiet, palm treed beach with no hotels or cruise ships in sight is the place to be!!!

In summary, would I recommend heading to the Philippines for vacation? Definitely! Friendly, English speaking locals. Terrific, home cooked meals. Inexpensive. Would I return? Absolutely. One could spend months simply hopping ferries to far flung islands and discovering paradise! It’s still out there. The unspoiled is there, amongst the 7,000+ islands.





Philippines: El Nido, Palawan

5 06 2024
El Nido Harbor from my hotel restaurant

El Nido is in the north of Palawan. It is an easy going place with a beachside vibe. Much of the town is automobile-free, so it’s very walking friendly. Its waters are beautifully blue, its restaurants offer cuisines from all over the world, and its coastline has some of the most beautiful islands you’ll see anywhere to explore, many with gorgeous snorkeling amongst the Bacuit Archipelago. The beach is most busy early in the morning when the outriggers head out on their “island hopping” tours. It can be hot. But once under a shady roof, by the water, it’s pretty comfortable. Walking and checking out the shops is a pastime. There are many services available to travelers. Currency exchange, airline tickets, ferries to other islands, pharmacies, motorbike rentals, snorkeling gear, and more. As I strolled around, I wasn’t subjected to audible offers of merchandise or tours. That was nice.

The town has plenty to offer travelers. I saw cuisine from Thailand, local, Greece, Italy, Mexico, France, Japan, China, Ukraine, and more. The beach is pleasant enough. But much more pristine beaches lay further out on the island and especially on the islands in the nearby archipelago.

One of my favorite meals was at a beachside restaurant in El Nido. I ordered a simple chicken pasta and a bowl of green-lipped mussel with peppers and ginger soup. It took a while as usual but OMG so divine! The soup was SO delicious. That combination of spicy and sweet. The pasta was home made! SO delicious. I’d forgotten how wonderful pasta can be!

Later that day I walked to the far north end of the beach and picked out a small shady table to get a beer. It was just so pleasant people watching. It made my day!

In the next blog post I will share from my El Nido Island Hopping Tour. I experienced the most beautiful beach I have ever seen.





Palawan Island, Philippines: Sabang’s Underground River and San Rafael Beach

4 06 2024

The Philippines is my 10th trip to Asia and my first to a Christian Asian country! The Philippines is a nation composed of 7,641 islands, most of them uninhabited. Palawan is a 270-mile long island bordering the South China Sea on the west side of the Philippines. The island is the principal island in the archipelagic province of Palawan. It has twice been voted best island in the world.

Palawan boasts rich natural diversity and beauty. It has hundreds of limestone cliff-bounded beaches, 6,000ft mountains, palm tree lined coves, giant jungle trees, uninhabited islands, jungle waterfalls, massive caves, surfing, snorkeling and world class scuba diving opportunities. English is spoken everywhere, and its citizens are warm and helpful. The food is fantastic. But don’t expect a quick meal. Go prepared to wait for the magic. Locals take their time and when the dish is served it’s obvious much care was taken in its preparation!

One of the island’s must-see attractions is the Subterranean River in Sabang. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visitors can take boats to explore several miles of the river, which is accessed via an oceanside lagoon. The river goes on much further underground, and one “hall” is 980ft high! An outrigger boat takes you from the Sabang waterfront to a beach near the river. From there, it’s a short walk to the entrance – a beach on a lagoon – your boat will take you onto the river from there.

A quiet lagoon leads into a world of bats, dripping stalactites and darkness…

The Philippines can be HOT. And, it’s a much more penetrating sun than I’m accustomed to in the Pacific NW of the United States. So the difference between the cave environment and the daylight of Palawan couldn’t be more dramatic. The lagoon is Gilligan’s Island perfect.

The entrance itself is magnificent, and hints at what lays inside.

Prior to entering, the guide admonishes the passengers to stay as quiet inside the cave as possible, so we can experience its magnificence. There are bats and swallows here.

Once inside, the guide switches on his headlamp, which unveils the fantastic shapes created by thousands of years of water dripping over limestone and the river flowing beneath. Mineral-rich water creates what look like upside down candles known as stalactites. Underneath those, right-side up candles reach up. These are called stalagmites. Here, some stalagmites are as big as a cabin!

After the Underground River experience, we are treated to a Palawan-inspired outdoor buffet lunch. It is on a roof covered deck in the jungle. At some point during the meal, local kids squeal with delight, dress up in costumes, and begin a dance. They are having such a good time! And I love watching. It’s infectious!

Then we are taken to our San Rafael Beach “backpacker” resort called 67th Heaven Holiday Resort. It’s run by a Swedish/Filipino couple. Not exactly a 4-Star Sheraton, it’s more laid-back seriously informal. Its grounds are filled with palms, flowers, a pool, beach bungalows, and a restaurant. You will probably see a gecko in your room. Don’t worry – they go after the insects! It sits on an ocean-side beach. So there is a surf. I found the water too warm for my liking. I preferred the pool. The food was the best part. You need to order hours ahead so they can prepare it exactly. And the menu is varied, everything from Chicken Cordon Bleu to Crab to Pumpkin Soup to Grilled Grouper. And after hours – they made a beach bonfire for us. The staff were locals. It’s a place to slow down and take things as they come.

One of my peak experiences on this trip was right here in the pool. On that morning, I chose to remain at the resort whilst the group hiked to a jungle waterfall with swim worthy pools. I had developed small blisters on my feet from sand in my shoes. So, I was incapable of the hike. I was alone back at the resort. Floating in the pool, with nobody around, my senses picked up the ocean breeze whirling through the palm trees, making sounds as the fronds caressed each other. That, with the sounds of the surf, buzzing bees and chortling shorebirds, took me right into the here an now. The moment. The peak experience!

The wind in the palm fronds did the trick!

Our next stop on Palawan would be El Nido. It’s several hours drive distant via a picturesque road. We couldn’t wait to discover more there!





Sun Peaks, British Columbia

28 02 2024

I drove the spectacular lake and mountain splashed Trans Canada Highway from Revelstoke to Kamloops. It’s about 3-4 hours. Eye popping views the entire way. Huge lakes with mountains dropping right down to the shore. And the Canadian National Railway snakes along the shore right along the other side. It was right out of a model railroad scene. Snowy, and I glimpsed a lakeside tunnel opening just as the lead freight locomotive popped through! I even saw my favorite wildlife of this road trip: a trumpeter swan.

I arrived in Kamloops about 1:30 p.m. and checked in to local landmark Scott’s Inn & Suites. Turned out to be a winner! I was checked in by a recently immigrated sub continent Indian who was training a recently immigrated woman from Ivory Coast. Best room of the trip with the biggest TV too. The Inn is a mid 20th Century kitschy architecture outside, but the rooms are 100% updated. Plus it has an equally quirky comfort food restaurant where hotel guests get 15% off. Most of the patrons at the restaurant are retirees. The food is straight up North American fare. Service is very efficient and helpful. I found it to be a super easy place for breakfast. Just crawl out of bed and head over. Once at Sun Peaks, every local I talked to knew about Scott’s! Seems like it is a staple in the Kamloops culture. After all, it’s been there over 60 years.

In contrast to Revelstoke and Rossland, which cater to the outdoor enthusiast, Kamloops is some kind of hodgepodge of outdoor recreation, agricultural, mining, railroad and timber industries’ regional headquarters. It has a gigantic railroad yard, where the famous Rocky Mountaineer passenger train was stored for the winter. I saw a film in a large shopping mall. Lots of tractor dealerships and service centers. The Canadian National was moving potash trains day and night. Potash is a mineral left over from ancient lakes, essential for fertilizer and mined in central Canada and shipped globally. And the banks that support these industries are well represented. It has a well developed bus transportation system with a sizeable central bus station. Kamloops is an easy 40-minute drive from the ski lifts at Sun Peaks.

With 4,270 acres of terrain, Sun Peaks is the second largest alpine ski area in Canada after Whistler Blackcomb. Its alpine village is walking-only, giving it a European feel. There’s no need to rush from Kamloops. You can get a good parking spot no worries!

During my three days at Sun Peaks, I covered the whole resort. I found the locals inclusive and friendly. In fact, on my very first lift up I met Redge and Louise, who own a house at the base. I skied with them all morning!

Conditions were very good, with plenty of fresh snow on tap. There was occasional fog blowing through.

Sun Peaks covers both sides of a valley with the village at the bottom. Locals said it gets drier snow than Whistler. Some said they’d switched to this place from Whistler because it’s less busy, less expensive and the snow is more reliable.

On day two, I opted to take part in one of Sun Peaks’ complimentary guided mountain tours. Like at RED Mountain, tours are divided up by ability level. We had maybe 7 guests in our group and two guides. They took us all over, including both sides of the valley. Lots of fun!

Sun Peaks Base area
Negotiating some trees!

While Sun Peaks definitely caters to vacationers from afar, it’s very definitely a local Kamloops family ski area. There were races going on, and the lodge had many, many kids doing what kids do!

Sun Peaks was my last BC ski area on this road trip. I liked all of them! RED Mountain, Revelstoke and Sun Peaks all have strong points. I was to make Crystal Mountain, WA my next stop on my way back to Portland, OR where I live. But a strong warm front brought a rainy monsoon that washed over a foot of snow away. I canceled that part and returned home.

Would I return to these ski resort? Definitely! Good snow, welcoming people, and very uncrowded. These days, less crowded alpine skiing is priceless!