Our sailing journey would put us this day on the infamous party island of Mykonos, something I was set to endure, not enjoy, or so I thought. What actually transpired turned out to be one of the highlights of my Greek vacation! I love archaeology and ancient civilizations, and I was not expecting to see a lot of Ancient Greece on this sailing-oriented vacation. What I discovered on this day was that there is a very important Ancient Greek island city a 30-minute water taxi away from the hubub of Mykonos! It is the island of Delos.
After our snorkel and lunch break, we motor sailed on our way to Mykonos. Passing amongst some smaller islands, George pointed out some ruins on the shore. It was Delos! Cool!
As we sailed past, George gave us a briefing on Mykonos. One of the activities was to take a water taxi to Delos, and the price included a guided tour of the ruins! Kathryn and I were in. This would be a perfect way to avoid the Mykonos crowds and take in some Ancient Greece! It would complete my vacation! I was stoked!
Past Delos, we came into what I learned was the windiest passage in the Greek Islands – between Tinos and Mykonos. We took a long starboard tack north upwind before coming about and making a port tack east over to Mykonos. Some of the waves came over the bow! The hull actually pounded after going over some waves.
Eventually, the Mykonos waterfront came into view. What I read was true. It would be packed with tourists. There were three cruise ships – Royal Caribbean’s Odyssey of the Seas, a 1,138 ft monster with 5,510 guest capacity, Carnival Cruises’ 963 ft Carnival Legend, with 2,124 guest capacity, and another from a cruise ship line I could not recognize. Together, these three ships are capable of dumping about 10,000 people on the port. I didn’t want to be there.
We docked at the comparatively minuscule sailboat marina, and George educated us that Mykonos has an efficient water taxi system which can whisk us around the bay, with “bus stops” along the way. He let Kathryn and I know which stop to use for the Delos water taxi. We were on our way! We were dropped off at another water taxi station, where Delos tour operators sold all inclusive tickets to the island. While waiting to buy our tickets, we saw a hundred cruise ship guests waiting in line for prepaid “shore excursions,” and they just reminded me of cattle being herded around. I was glad for our freedom.
After disembarking at Delos, we were met by our English-speaking tour guide, also an on-site archaeologist. It was a 90-minute walkabout. The island isn’t big. It’s 5KM long and 1,300M wide. It isn’t favorable to agriculture, so food had to be imported.
For people of antiquity, Delos was a very important island city. It was said to be the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis. Situated at the center of a spoked wheel, if you will, Delos was a wealthy cosmopolitan trading center for all ancient civilizations, and a melting pot for religion and culture. At one point it had various neighborhoods housing Greeks, Romans, Egyptians and Syrians. Its earliest settlements began about 2,500 B.C. Its greatest importance grew from when it was declared a free port in 167 B.C. Wealthy merchants, bankers, ship builders, and traders from Persia, Rome, Egypt, Syria, Turkey and beyond set up businesses.
It became “Maximum emporium totius orbis terrarum,” the greatest commercial island in the known world. Its prosperity attracted organized looters, for it was sacked twice and eventually abandoned. Today, evidence of its role as a crossroads are everywhere on the island. There are sanctuaries for Greek, Syrian and Egyptian gods.
I really enjoyed the Naxian Lions, checking out the 6,000 person amphitheater, the fish monger / butcher areas, and admiring the mosaic tiles on the residential floors.
As it was late in the afternoon, the light was very striking. It was breezy and pleasant. Then it was time to head back to the water taxi, and Mykonos. Kathryn and I arrived about dinner time, and set out to find a unique and economically priced restaurant. George told us that the places on the Mykonos waterfront are not only overpriced but charge a reservation fee! So we prowled the back streets. It was there that we noticed a guy walking by with a to-go food box. We asked him where did he get that? It was a place called Sakis, around the corner, and he said it was great! We checked it out and scored big time! It is an “over the counter” style eating place with shared tables. Not a restaurant with servers. So, we ordered from the counter and found seats. It wasn’t long before we were joined by other guests, and then a street artist. We gladly shared our stories! This turned out to be pure joy. And my meal was only 9 Euros! Wow!
This was a lot of food. And so fresh. Over fed, completely stuffed and happy, we waddled back to the water taxi station out on the waterfront. There, we found Mario, Ingrid and Natalie too! So all in all, my Mykonos – Delos experience turned into one of the crown jewels of this Greek vacation.
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