The Philippines is my 10th trip to Asia and my first to a Christian Asian country! The Philippines is a nation composed of 7,641 islands, most of them uninhabited. Palawan is a 270-mile long island bordering the South China Sea on the west side of the Philippines. The island is the principal island in the archipelagic province of Palawan. It has twice been voted best island in the world.
Palawan boasts rich natural diversity and beauty. It has hundreds of limestone cliff-bounded beaches, 6,000ft mountains, palm tree lined coves, giant jungle trees, uninhabited islands, jungle waterfalls, massive caves, surfing, snorkeling and world class scuba diving opportunities. English is spoken everywhere, and its citizens are warm and helpful. The food is fantastic. But don’t expect a quick meal. Go prepared to wait for the magic. Locals take their time and when the dish is served it’s obvious much care was taken in its preparation!
One of the island’s must-see attractions is the Subterranean River in Sabang. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visitors can take boats to explore several miles of the river, which is accessed via an oceanside lagoon. The river goes on much further underground, and one “hall” is 980ft high! An outrigger boat takes you from the Sabang waterfront to a beach near the river. From there, it’s a short walk to the entrance – a beach on a lagoon – your boat will take you onto the river from there.
The Philippines can be HOT. And, it’s a much more penetrating sun than I’m accustomed to in the Pacific NW of the United States. So the difference between the cave environment and the daylight of Palawan couldn’t be more dramatic. The lagoon is Gilligan’s Island perfect.
The entrance itself is magnificent, and hints at what lays inside.
Prior to entering, the guide admonishes the passengers to stay as quiet inside the cave as possible, so we can experience its magnificence. There are bats and swallows here.
Once inside, the guide switches on his headlamp, which unveils the fantastic shapes created by thousands of years of water dripping over limestone and the river flowing beneath. Mineral-rich water creates what look like upside down candles known as stalactites. Underneath those, right-side up candles reach up. These are called stalagmites. Here, some stalagmites are as big as a cabin!
After the Underground River experience, we are treated to a Palawan-inspired outdoor buffet lunch. It is on a roof covered deck in the jungle. At some point during the meal, local kids squeal with delight, dress up in costumes, and begin a dance. They are having such a good time! And I love watching. It’s infectious!
Then we are taken to our San Rafael Beach “backpacker” resort called 67th Heaven Holiday Resort. It’s run by a Swedish/Filipino couple. Not exactly a 4-Star Sheraton, it’s more laid-back seriously informal. Its grounds are filled with palms, flowers, a pool, beach bungalows, and a restaurant. You will probably see a gecko in your room. Don’t worry – they go after the insects! It sits on an ocean-side beach. So there is a surf. I found the water too warm for my liking. I preferred the pool. The food was the best part. You need to order hours ahead so they can prepare it exactly. And the menu is varied, everything from Chicken Cordon Bleu to Crab to Pumpkin Soup to Grilled Grouper. And after hours – they made a beach bonfire for us. The staff were locals. It’s a place to slow down and take things as they come.
One of my peak experiences on this trip was right here in the pool. On that morning, I chose to remain at the resort whilst the group hiked to a jungle waterfall with swim worthy pools. I had developed small blisters on my feet from sand in my shoes. So, I was incapable of the hike. I was alone back at the resort. Floating in the pool, with nobody around, my senses picked up the ocean breeze whirling through the palm trees, making sounds as the fronds caressed each other. That, with the sounds of the surf, buzzing bees and chortling shorebirds, took me right into the here an now. The moment. The peak experience!
Our next stop on Palawan would be El Nido. It’s several hours drive distant via a picturesque road. We couldn’t wait to discover more there!
Cabin Fever Chronicles - Getting Outdoors with Rod 