Lower Columbia River Water Trail: Lark Island Day 1

20 07 2010

We took a couple of days to explore the lower Columbia. We saw eagles dog fighting with ospreys, a sea lion, many fishermen and ships, Caspian terns, and best of all more fireworks!

I strongly believe this is one of the top places near Portland, Oregon to paddle. Yet, it’s very under appreciated!

This weekend I scheduled a Lower Columbia River Water Trail kayak camping trip for my Paddle NW Meetup group. The idea was to leave Cathlamet, paddle out to Lark Island, set up camp, and then spend the afternoon playing around in the frequently challenging conditions in and around Skamokawa, WA, on the Columbia River. Then the following day play around the islands on the Oregon side, paddle west with the outgoing side, and then take out at Skamokawa.

Paddlers were myself, Monte, Jessie, Francis, and Heather. A great group! Everyone experienced with primitive camping.

We met down at Skamakowa Paddle Center and I filed a float plan with Ginnie Callahan. Tanned, healthy looking and fresh from her southern experiences in Baja Mexico and Tasmania, she took down our float plan. She took great interest in Paddle NW, as she is having some challenges putting together Meetups for her Lower Columbia Kayak Roundup, August 19-22. I gave her my business card and said I’d promote it on the Meetup site.

We met back at Cathlamet’s Elochoman Marina, which was the put-in.

The usual stuffing and cramming of gear into kayaks ensued.

We were all with good spirits! Monte was very accommodating, his Hyundai parked to take anything we needed to keep ashore.

Jessie had the compass on board and I had the charts. We did the pre-launch briefing…oriented ourselves to the charts, and then we were off. We had a marine layer of clouds but it was forecasted to burn off.

Which way?

I didn’t know prior to scheduling this paddle, but today was “Eagle Day” at Cathlamet! Eagle Day brings plenty of wooden boats and then in the evening fireworks! Hee hee.

We took off paddling with the outgoing tide down a slough behind Ryan Island. This conveniently allowed us protected passage and wildlife viewing!

Here is Jessie checking out a wily raccoon. This guy was determined to finger the mud for food – I imagine it was clams or insects hiding in the mud. I love watching raccoons using their fingers. 

One day they will be texting each other!

Soon we emerged into the Columbia River for a crossing of the shipping channel. To our port lay the tip of Puget Island. This is a blind corner, and Ginnie Callahan warned us to hail over VHS before crossing, because ships headed west can emerge there without warning. We needed to gather into a tight group and head across.

After hailing, we ferried across, but the current kept trying to sweep us below our target, and we had to keep correcting our angle to “crab” across the current to make our end target on the other side – which was Lark Island.

Caspian terns were our constant companions

Once over, we beached and checked out the situation. Ginnie had suggested a camping spot, but it was already occupied. Then a friendly fisherman told us his spot would become available once they took off. So we decided to paddle around the island and come back when the fisherman was gone.

The chart said 1-ft of water was available behind the island. So I said give it a go, we’d be able to circumnavigate no problem. But nope. Things have changed since the chart was made! We grounded about 100 yards from the end.

This was the easy part.

Time to use the handles on the boats for their intended purpose!  That would be towing by hand.

Grounding?  No problem. Excellent time to have lunch and fly the kite!

If I could only find my peanut butter. It was stuffed somewhere…but I did not find it until dinner…freaking annoying.

We also witnessed lots of eagles, ospreys, terns, seagulls and some white pelicans. A giant car carrier passed us by.

And we saw some interesting creatures in the mud.

Later this day everything turned out wonderful! Sun, warmth, all the good things. We set up tents, gathered lots of fire wood, shared stories, made munchies, cooked sausages on sticks, and more.

I was dog tired and lay down for a bit!

We enjoyed Heather’s raspberry/lemon squares for dessert and marshmallows over the fire.

Then, the Cathlamet fireworks began, and we were impressed! Lots of original sky art for all! Finally, maybe 10:30 p.m. we bed down for the night!





Evening Paddle Organized by April – and My Old Kayak Britney Shows Up

16 07 2010

April Obern scheduled an after work paddle for tonight and a number of us showed up. Jessie, Phil Stanton, Jim, and two ladies with the same…Kristi! One of them I sold my Riot Brittany last year…and it was great to see my old boat out there!

I must say my old boat (not really very old!) looks great with Kristi in it! Such a pretty yellow/orange blend. Very pretty shape!

It was a beautiful evening. Temperature 86 degrees – wonderful to be on the river. And, the river was very warm! So several of us were rolling for practice.

When we passed the Ross Island Lagoon, a tug and barge was pulling out of its dock. We had to pull over to the port side of the passage to allow it to pass.

Kind of looks like the barge sent enough waves to capsize Phil! Not so, in this photo, Phil is just practicing his roll.

What a nice night! We really enjoyed being out there!





Timothy Lake Primitive Kayak Camping: Day 2

1 07 2010

Morning broke bright and clear! The sunlight bathed the forest opposite in a warm glow – reflecting perfectly on the water in between. Another nice day on Timothy Lake had begun.

Slowly but surely, tents were unzipped and kayak campers emerged, rubbing eyes and hungry for breakfast. The fire was brought back to life and camp stoves revved up for cooking. Seemed everybody had the same idea – oatmeal with assorted accompaniments like nuts, yogurt and fruit. Coffee and tea were consumed heartily!

Nobody was in a hurry; we were content to experience the day’s warm-up and then take our time breaking camp.

Our mellow mood attracted a guest! For about 15 minutes a hungry Pileated Woodpecker pecked the douglas firs in and around our campsite foraging for breakfast. Up and down the trees it went, offering numerous photographic opportunities. This was the first time I’d seen one in Oregon, and I felt privileged in its presence!

The day’s plan called for a relaxed return to our start at Gone Creek Campground, with a lunch along the way.

Towing a threesome!

Wow, the color of the lake was truly spectacular! I could not figure why it was such a bright blue this time around. We nuzzled into a sunny, south facing campsite for lunch.

Next we hugged the rocky east side of the lake on our return. I tested out my new LevelSix tow belt. Very nice gear – and my fellow paddlers provided plenty of resistance!





Primitive Kayak Camping at Timothy Lake: Day 1

29 06 2010

I took the Paddle NW Meetup group up to Timothy Lake for a simple kayak camping overnight. We had the best weather of the year!

Monty and Jerry at the launch

The idea was to leave the cars in a campground and paddle across to one of the primitive campsites on the north side of the lake. Timothy Lake has five developed campgrounds, but there are countless primitive campsites dotting the north side of the lake. Many are accessed only by boat or on foot. To park in the campsite boat launch, you can use a Northwest Forest Pass, or pay the day use fee at the campground.

It was only a one-night event. Five paddlers signed up, including my neighbor Stacy. She got a treat! Perfect, just glorious weather. We loaded up my VW Jetta wagon and met the other kayak campers, Monte, Francis and Jerry up at the Gone Creek Campground boat launch.

Wow! What wonderful water color!

And what a day it was! We were greeted with blue skies, snow capped Mount Hood, and the lake a light blue-green I’ve never witnessed before. We exchanged greetings, and filled out the liability waivers now required as part of the Paddle NW Meetup.

This paddle the kayak population decidedly favored Pygmys! Never seen a lineup like this. We had a majority of wooden kayaks and no fiberglass boats! Three Pygmy kayak models were represented – the 14′ Arctic Tern, a 17′ Arctic Tern, and 17’6″ Coho. Compliments flowed freely wherever we went.

Where to go, they asked? Although I always coveted two perfect spots to the west of Meditation Point, I wanted one with a good sunset view. I remembered a spot tucked behind a peninsula at the entrance to the upper arm of the lake. We paddled over there, and there were campers who said the site would be available for the night.

Unfortunately, they were not going to be vacating the spot until late in the day. We were anxious to get started setting up camp. So, we set out searching for another spot along the shore – a task revealing just how popular Timothy Lake can be on a gorgeous summer weekend. While there are numerous campsites dotting the north side, not all are kayak-accessible. Kayaks need a gently sloping landing area to land and unpack. “No vacancy” signs were everywhere. We checked out all the spots along that side, to just beyond Meditation Point, and all were already taken! OK lesson learned.

At Francis’ suggestion we explored further up the arm of the lake. Rounding a bend we came across the quiet area forming the upper region of the lake. Here, you’d think you weren’t even at Timothy. It’s much more closed in, there are little grassy islands, it’s cozy, and as you explore even further, there’s a beaver lodge sitting in the center of the river.

We saw a very nice site which seemed to be available on the east side. I’ve never seen this site vacant. We landed and determined that it could be ours! Fate had shined kindly on us!

Jerry and Monte in the Pygmys at launch

This site offered plenty of area to set up all our tents, a beach, a central fire pit, and there was even a kitchen counter set up. Much relieved, we set up camp!

Ho ho! Someone left some reading materials for us! A current issue of Playboy Magazine was there for the taking!

Wow! Light reading!

This site faced west, and we took full advantage of the warm sun!

Stacy made herself home in the hammock. I found the lake pleasantly warm and took time to practice kayak rolling.

Jerry, Francis, Monte and took an hour to explore the upper arm of the lake.

Francis emerges…

One glides past interesting grassy islands. Tight paths crisscross the grasses and are worth exploring.

The beaver lodge is pretty impressive, worthy of a portrait!

Up there, the water is crystal clear, because it comes straight from the spring at Little Crater Lake. The water makes hypnotizing patterns as the sun shines on the bottom.

My kayak = not a problem rolling. I even rolled it on my offside using a paddle float. Nice to know my recovering shoulder took that in stride! YAY! But in trying to roll the 14′ Arctic Tern, I just fell out! It had no thigh braces nor hip pads.

Next, the highlight was to prepare a feast! Since this was only a one night affair, I brought a Trader Joes frozen flounder stuffed crab meal and accompanied it with fresh salad and garlic mashed potatoes! I brought the grill top from my Weber tabletop grill, and cooked it inside aluminum foil. Perfect!

This evening the sleeping was pleasantly quiet. It was a full moon, which rose just after sunset, bathing the forest in a shimmery silver. The only sounds came from hooting owls and snoring campers.





Summer Means Kayak Camping…Let’s Go!

25 06 2010

Kayak camping is great.

Breakfast at Waldo Lake

You don’t have to carry your gear, as in backpacking. You can bring along a few luxuries, such as a folding chair. Still, there are definite limitations. One standout is the hatch size. Some decked kayaks only have 10 inch diameter hatches, limiting the size of what can fit inside. You might be able to fit some items in the cockpit. But don’t over stuff, or you’ll interfere with your ability to wet exit. Either way, unless they’re secured inside, they might be lost. As for the big sit on tops with gear wells, everything must be in dry bags and secured. No matter which way you go, as long as you adequately plan your kayak adventure, you’ll have fun!

Food
You’ll need enough food to cover the number of breakfasts, lunches and dinners on the trip. It’s a good idea to plan on food that doesn’t need refrigeration. Many options are available; you just need to rethink your normal cooking routine. You can usually have a luxurious first meal by freezing meat or seafood and allowing it to defrost during your paddle. After that, consider bringing food that can be rehydrated or food that can be brought without refrigeration. A fun idea is to split up the meals amongst the group. So a threesome prepares one breakfast, then another a dinner, and so on.

Clothing
Obviously you’ll need clothing for wet conditions. Today’s synthetic fabrics work the best when you might sweat and the weather is wet. Wool works well too. These will wick the perspiration away from your body, allowing it to evaporate. A cotton layer will trap the moisture, keeping you wet. Cotton is better suited for camp, when you’re relaxing. River shoes are also important as you’ll be walking in and out of the water. Drybags are essential for all kayaks to carry your gear because sometimes hatches leak. Smaller size bags (15L and under) are preferable because first they’ll fit into the hatches; second they are good for organizing and third they can be stuffed into the nooks and crannies of the kayak. There are also compressible dry bags so you can squeeze even more clothing.

Safety
Safety gear is a requirement. PFDs, carabiners, ropes, maps, flares, and a good first-aid kit are must-haves. Depending on the trip, a map, compass, GPS and emergency locator might also be important. FRS radios are very handy in areas with no cell phone coverage and now some have a 20 mile range.

Packing the Boat
Pack the kayak so that the heaviest items are on the bottom. Your boat will ride much better that way. Also try to pack the boat so that the weight is as evenly distributed bow to stern as possible. If you can’t get it perfect, it’s better to have the stern heavier than the bow. A rudderless, bow-heavy boat is very difficult to steer in challenging conditions. Further, if you need to stash extra gear on deck, start with a small amount on the deck right in front of the cockpit and then go to the stern deck. Try to pack it as low as possible so it won’t catch the wind. On one kayak trip, a paddler over packed the bow so much that his boat constantly veered to port. Having paddled too far to repack, the only way he could correct the problem was cocking his rudder – at least he had a rudder! It makes sense to pack day use items nearest the hatch cover so they’re handy. And remember that some small electronics like GPS, cell phones and iPods are not always waterproof. There are numerous accessories which enable you to carry these protected from the elements. Still, other personal use items like sunglasses, sunscreen and lip balm should be packed outside of the spray skirt so they can be accessed easily. There are PFDs with gear pockets, spray skirts with pockets or zippers, deck bags and over-the-shoulder mini dry bags for today’s necessities.

Conditions – Planning Makes Perfect
Planning for the weather and conditions where you’re going make the difference between a safe, pleasant voyage and an unpleasant, perhaps disastrous experience. Check the weather forecasts for the area you’re paddling. Research specifics such as whether the area normally experiences higher winds later in the day. On a large lake, find out if, for example, the afternoon wind usually blows from the west. If so, you might want to head across the lake to the west in the morning, and take advantage of the wind returning. If your trip is in tidal waters find out the size of the tide and tidal directions and velocities and their timing during your trip. When setting up camp you must set camp above the high tide line and well protected from waves created by any passing ships. You’ll want to plan your paddling to take every advantage of the tide, because in some areas, you cannot paddle against the tide. In many rivers near the ocean the outgoing tide doubles or triples the river current. Find out if commercial traffic will be traversing your route. Ships and barges travel much faster than they appear from a distance and are often constrained by the shipping channel. If you take advantage of general weather conditions, local nuances and tides, they can work in your favor. Otherwise, well, I think you can probably imagine.

Paddling Equipment
Paddles
PFDs
Spray skirt
Headlamp
Flares
Repair kit
Dry bags
Paddling gloves
Permits for your journey or overnight camping (if necessary)
Immersion wear

Camping Equipment
Flashlights
Headlamp
Extra batteries
Lantern
Duct tape
Water
Water filter
Fuel
Lighter and matches
Tent/Ground cloth
Repair kit
Sleeping bag
Sleeping pad
Pillow (optional)
Backpacking Hammock

Safety
First aid kit
Ropes
Carabiners
Map
FRS Radios
Compass
Throw bag
Float bag
VHS Radio

Clothing
Synthetic Long Underwear
Waterproof / breathable pants
Waterproof / breathable shell
Sun hat with brim
Fleece or wool jacket
Swimsuit
Towel
Underwear
Socks
Winter hat
Gloves
Sunglasses

Toiletries
Camp soap
Bug spray
Sunscreen
Toilet paper
Trowel
Lip balm
Shaving kit
Toothpaste and brush
Toilet paper

Kitchen
Eating Utensils
Spatula
Mess kit
Stove and fuel
Garbage bag
Camp soap and scrunge
Cups
Dish towels

Optional Fun Stuff
Mask, flippers, snorkel
Camera
Binoculars
Fishing equipment
Reading material
Foldable camping chair
Beverage of your choice
Musical instruments

Suggested Food
Tuna, salmon, crab or chicken in foil packages
Simple Lipton Pasta quickie meals
Gorditas or soft tortillas for bread. Regular bread is easily crushed.
Powdered butter
Powdered soft drinks
Pasta
Apples
Banana
Green or red peppers
Onion
Carrot
Potato
Pancake mix (add water only type) (repackage), syrup and oil (repackage)
Non-stick spray or oil
Trail mix
Nuts
Instant coffee (if you can stand it)
Instant oatmeal
Couscous
Honey
Power bars
Condiments – you can head to fast food joints for no-refrigeration needed packets of ketchup, relish, Dijon, horseradish, sugar, salt, wasabi, soy sauce, it’s amazing the treasure you can find!





Friday Night Getaway: Smith and Bybee Lakes

10 05 2010

Smith and Bybee Lakes are an urban wildlife enclave

Ready to roll down to the put in

in North Portland, Oregon. Driving up there I thought I was headed into an industrial zone, which I was. The parking area sits right opposite a rail yard. Planes coming and going to Portland Airport glide in the distance.

Yet here is a tidy wildlife preserve tucked in the midst of all this. There is over a thousand acres of preserved wetland. Many species of birds make the place home.

Four of us met and set out onto the lakes. The weather forecast for this night was for sun – and of course they were wrong, as they have been for the past two weeks. We got there and instead of a lovely sunset the sky was full of storm cells. Nevertheless, we lucked out. We didn’t experience any rain, though all around us it looked threatening!

Sarah styling!

Heading out!

We saw five beaver dams. Lots of ospreys. Red winged blackbirds were everywhere in the trees. All in all, it was a really pleasant evening! We were glad to be there.