Sailing the Greek Cyclades: Amorgos

20 12 2024

Departing Ios, we motor-sailed to Katapola Harbor on the Island of Amorgos. Whilst heading in, I noticed other sailboats just like us, all arriving to spend the night here. Cruise ships cannot dock here as it’s too small. But ferries pay brief visits to drop off and pick up passengers and vehicles.

The harbor village is pretty compact – it only goes a street or two up the hill behind the marina. But there are enough restaurants, shops, cafes and markets for us. The island’s total population in 2021 was 1,961. Once docked, George told us about highlights and arranged for us to meet for dinner at one of the restaurants. It’s busy for such small village, with sailboats from New Zealand, Belgium, Poland, Holland, and France.

Amorgos is long and skinny with high hills running its spine. Two highlights are the mountain top Hora (village) with its famous windmills, and the cliff-hanging seaside Panagia Hozoviotissa Greek Orthodox monastery. George explained that while there is a bus system on Amorgos, the most time-efficient way to see everything and get back for dinner would be to rent cars. So we rented. I volunteered to drive – and surprises awaited! I had 4 in my car and the thing was as stubborn as a mule. The Amorgos roads consist of steep switchbacks climbing up and down all over the place. And upon every tight uphill turn, this car would just about stall in protest, then all of the sudden catch up with itself and zoom forward! After a few such turns I started yelling, “Go Donkey GO!” And I palm spanked the center column like a horseman urging his beast of burden forward. Everybody squealed with giggles and laughter.

The monastery, built in 1066, clings to the cliffside 800 feet above the Aegean. An impressive sight! Accessing it requires 25 minutes climbing a very well maintained hand chiseled and steep staircase. I was thankful for the sea breeze! We all made it up there.

The inside of the monastery was, well, steep, short and tight all at once. In other words, cramped. The stairs, wide enough for one, climbed quickly and the low ceiling required ducking to enter rooms. I wasn’t truly impressed. The worship enclave was stuffed with hastily arranged and abandoned artifacts. I was anxious to leave. The view was incredible! The cliffs plunged all the way to the sea.

Our next stop was the Hora. Gina, Ellie and I took a stroll around, then had some refreshments at a cafe overlooking the windmills. Then it was time to get back to port. We had a harborside table, outside, and it was very comfortable as dusk gave way to the evening! It was a leisurely paced meal. I chose a wonderful starter – Greek seasoned mussels. The main was a spicy spaghetti, slightly cheesy, creamy, with lots of veggies and red peppers, which I was quite fond of.

Here at the Katapola waterfront I captured some images of our boat! Inside and out. It has a beautiful blue hull and the galley was very nice!

Tomorrow we set sail for one of the “Small Cyclades” islands, the very very small and jewel-like Ano Koufonisi!





Sailing Greek’s Cyclades Islands: Ios

14 12 2024
A ferry arrives in our cozy harbor at sunset. From the Volcano Bar.

In September 2024 I undertook a 10-day sailboat adventure with Intrepid Travel in the Greek Cyclades Islands. I’ve been a sailor since I was six-years old. I’ve cruised and raced on everything from dinghys to 12-Meters. But I always dreamed of cruising overseas, and one of my top bucket list destinations is Greece. Experiencing the islands by sailboat allows explorations of intimate places and cultural experiences the big cruise ships due to size and sheer numbers of guests cannot offer.

This experience is not for everyone, but 100% perfect for me. There are no casinos, water parks or black tie dinners. On this trip we had a 55-ft sloop with George, our captain. We were 8 women and two men. Some were single, others were married without spouse, and there was a mother and daughter. We were a mix of American, Australian, Australian England resident, and Iranian now Australian. We were complete strangers all excited to become a team. We had shared cabins each with its own bath. We shopped for breakfast and lunch food and made it on board. We all took a hand at sailing. Our days typically began with breakfast, shoving off about 8 or 9, stopping in a cove for snorkeling and lunch, and then arriving at our island destination about 3 p.m. Then explore, with a dinner out at a local restaurant. Each island offered its own highlights. All had beaches with lovely “Horas,” or main villages. Others had ancient Greek ruins, cliffside monasteries, lively downtowns, and marina districts which varied from cozy Hemingway novel waterfronts to bustling with cruise ships like Mykonos.

We first met on the waterfront on Santorini, then took a fast ferry to Ios, where Big Blue, our sailboat, awaited. The waterfront had maybe two dozen boats like ours, hailing from many countries. Sweden, Poland, Belgium, New Zealand, Singapore, Germany and many more. One was from Marblehead, Massachusetts! I lived there and raced there! Big Blue had two wheels and a generous cockpit.

Big Blue had many modern features which made it easy to sail. It had a remote controlled anchor system. It had a self-steering GPS guided navigation system. The toilets flushed with a push button. And the mainsail furled into the mast. The galley was well equipped and generously sized.

Once settled into our cabins, George held an orientation session. Here, he explained life aboard. As with all sailboats, they heel, so cabinet doors and drawers had special closures. Windows/hatches must be closed when sailing. Loose items must be off tables. There were 3 coolers/refrigerators, a radio, stove, oven, kitchen sink. When conditions get rough, always hold on to something when moving about.

One of the most important items to get settled right away is the group Kitty. On most Intrepid Travel trips, guests contribute to a group kitty, and the guide uses this to pay admission fees, certain transportation, tips for local guides and bus drivers, and such. On this trip, the kitty is used to pay for groceries and rental cars and such.

Once orientation was complete, George told us about activities on Ios. Strolling the waterfront. Grocery shopping and provisioning. Later, enjoy a sunset cocktail at the spectacular hillside Volcano Bar, and then dinner in the Hora at a restaurant called Lord Byron. It was a bit more than my budget to do all, but I went ahead and WOW it was worth all of it.

The sunset view at the Volcano Bar. You can take in the whole Aegean Sea with an infinity pool right in front. And 100% perfect weather!

So surreal at sunset!

Next, we took a bus down to the Hora, strolled the streets. Like all the Cyclades, the Chora is a village with white buildings up on a hill, with small, steep streets and walkways. And very neat and clean.

As dusk drew close, we headed to Lord Byron. Decorated in an eclectic cluttered style, each turn revealed something to feast my eyes. We ate with windows open and a moonlit view.

Completely over stuffed with full bellies, we waddled to the bus stop. The local bus takes about 10 minutes down the hill right to the marina where Big Blue was tied up. It wasn’t long before we were in our cabins fast asleep.

I awoke early and stepped out. Ios port had several cafes open early, and I checked out out.

It was chock full of fresh baked goods, and an espresso bar. I picked out a bakery item and was good to go!

We pulled out of the dock and were on our way to Amorgos, the next island. It was a beautiful morning with a light wind. We used the motor to make time.

Here’s a sailing video!

We stopped for lunch and a snorkel in a warm, windswept cove before arriving in Amorgos!