From Ano Koufonisi, we navigated to our next destination, Naxos. Naxos is the largest of the Cyclades Islands. It boasts a working harbor with multiple ferries and fishing boats, a bustling waterfront with many restaurants, cafes and shops, a hill top castle with rooftop restaurant nearby, and some ancient Greek ruins to explore. As of 2024, the island’s population was just over 20,000.
Gliding towards our marina, we passed by some smaller naval ships and Running on Waves, a “boutique barquentine” for vacationers, one which we’d run into later in our cruise. It has a capacity of 42 passengers total. I bet it’s nice!
Once docked, George gave us ideas on things to check out. There is the Apollo’s Gate, the waterfront, an ancient Greek Dionysus temple, walking up to The Kastro Venetian Castle, and perhaps a group dinner with music and smashing plates at the Flamingo Restaurant.
I definitely wanted to see the temple and walk about town. But I declined the Flamingo option, sensing an expensive and awkward tourist trap situation.
We all headed over to the Portara of Naxos, or Apollo’s Gate, part of the Temple of Apollo, which is easily reached along the waterfront. It’s free and has a nice view of the town, hillside neighborhoods, and the waterfront. And we had such nice weather!
The Temple of Apollo, an unfinished temple founded in the 6th Century BC, is one of the most pretty spots on the island. According Ancient Greek folklore, this is where Minoan Princess Ariadne was abandoned after helping her fiance Theseus kill the Minotaur at Crete. She got over it. She was later to marry Dionysus. As for us, we took the opportunity to snap some lovely images with the temple!
Next, we climbed the winding walking streets, past shops and cafes, up to the 13th Century Kastro Venetian Castle and its rooftop cafe. Along the route we passed bougainvilleas, as well as an art gallery and 16th Century Catholic Church.
We took an elevator up to the rooftop cafe, and enjoyed a leisurely lunch. When done, several of us wanted to take a taxi to see the Temple of Dionysus. The taxi dropped us off about a block from the entrance, because there was a construction truck blocking the road. When we got there, the temple was deserted and closed. Turned out it closed early as it was shoulder season! We called the taxi back, and tails between our legs, returned to the marina. It was late afternoon.
My evening turned out to be a fruitful solo exploration. I left the others to dine at the Flamingo, where plate smashing is part of the menu. Instead, I struck out on my own, wandering back pathways in search of a unique experience, which from my personal observation, is hard to find as a group. As I wound my way through the labyrinth of walkways, I checked a number of menus as I passed. Then one cafe struck my fancy. Reasonably priced, family owned, and with a back deck overlooking the waterfront beyond! I secured a small table by the edge, and was promptly offered a menu by a most agreeable server. I had a roast chicken breast with potato and vegetable, accompanies by a couple glasses of red wine. All for 12 Euros!
Afterward, I strolled the length of the waterfront, then retired to relax on the foredeck of our sailboat, Big Blue. From there, I could hear the Flamingo. A loud lute player, smashing plates, plus a cacophony of laughter. From the boat it sounded fine. Out on our boat, I was all set. I had a full moon and gentle breeze blowing through the rigging of docked sailboats. Later I was to find out from those who went to the Flamingo that it was hard to talk with the lute so loud! It got mixed reviews. Some liked it and others said they spent too much.
Our next destination was the infamous island of Mykonos. Its reputation as a hedonistic hard partying late night scene had me dreading the place! I was set to get hold of myself and endure. Little did I know how an alternative activity would completely change my time there and become a highlight of the trip!
Cabin Fever Chronicles - Getting Outdoors with Rod 