Sailing the Nile River Around Aswan

3 11 2023

Cruising the Nile was an unexpected delight. I was so focused on the ancient history I’d completely overlooked how pleasant the river can be. It offers pleasant air, cooled by its waters. Life slows down.

On this visit to Egypt, we experienced floating on the Nile three ways. We rode a pleasant open air launch in the early evening. We sailed on a Felucca in the afternoon. And, we spent three days on a Nile cruise ship.

Our first experiences were in Aswan. After Philae, we boarded a motor launch to cross the river, where we were to dine with a Nubian family. But we didn’t expect a thirty minute boat ride. It was warm, with cooling breezes, and the river was lazily moving flat water. Felucca dhows plied the waters back and forth, never hurried. Palm trees lined the shores.

We passed along from the east bank to the west. On the west side, Sahara sands come right up to the river. We also ran through some resident islands. Kids being kids! Some were trying to figure out how to make a sailboat with whatever they could find. One thing I learned about Egypt, is that Ancient Egyptian relics are everywhere. Here, in the river, there are hieroglyphs for navigation marks on the rocks!

The following afternoon we embarked on a pleasant sail aboard a felucca. These are shallow drafted wooden dhows and can easily carry 15 passengers. There is something about sailing. It was super relaxing!

When we sailed in between islands, the overall depth could be 15 feet, but there were 12 foot rocks – which we passed over and the captain pulled up the centerboard. He knew exactly where they were. We didn’t hit anything.

This is a stretch of river featured in the film Death on the Nile. There were scenes from the Old Cataract Hotel, and we passed right by. Today, you can have a nice sunset drink on the bar overlooking the river! Al and Allie did just that.

In one sequence we seemed to be in a little felucca sailboat race, so I had to do a little narrative.

As I hope you will agree, sailing around Aswan is a must-do experience! In future posts I’ll show our Nile Cruise Ship. It is definitely a great way to see the river.





Philae: The Island Temple to Isis

2 11 2023

Our overnight train from Cairo to Aswan arrived about 9 a.m. I’ve experienced various 3rd World overnight trains. In Vietnam, Thailand, and now Egypt. All three had the end-of-the-car restroom and toilet, which, when one opens the lid, the wind rushes up and the railroad ties fly by below. I’d rank Thailand 1st, Egypt a distant 2nd, and Vietnam 3rd. This one was a 1950’s Soviet bloc built version. The cabin had double windows, which partially filled in with Sahara sand. It was stop and go all night. We weren’t completely rested, but we were ready to tuck into our riverside hotel in Aswan and head out to visit Philae Temple.

We had maybe 90 minutes to settle into our rooms. Once showered, I took time to sit out on the balcony. Watching the scene of the Nile, lined with palms, fellucca dhows lazily sailing, a dry, gentle breeze, and unhurried traffic, I knew Aswan agreed with me. It is a scene from Hollywood-and yes, it really is a scene from Hollywood! 1978’s Death on the Nile was filmed right here!

Today’s highlight was exploring the Isis Temple at Philae. It must be reached by boat. Once underway I was simply blown away at the sight of a beautiful, huge temple on the water with palm trees all around!

Philae is a reconstructed temple. It was originally on a lower island, which was submerged when they built the Aswan Dam. It was so important that UNESCO disassembled block by block and then reassembled it on this current higher elevation island. It is dedicated to Isis, one of the most important Ancient Egyptian deities. She was both brother and wife of Osiris, and mother of Horus. She was a goddess of magic, healing, and motherhood. It was believed she could bring the dead to life, as she did in the epic tale of Set-Osiris-Horus. She was one of the most popular goddesses during the Roman era. Archeologists date the earliest construction of the temple around 360 BCE. It is of the Greco-Roman period.

I was very impressed! Many scenes of kings and gods and goddesses. Around the side, there is a much smaller temple dedicated to the goddess Hathor. She was the goddess of women, love, sensuality, dance and music. On its walls there are carved images of harps, flutes, and a stringed instrument being played.