With a 95+ degree forecast for Cairo, we were delighted our next couple of days would be spent right on the Mediterranean coast. There, in Alexandria, a comfortable 75 degrees Fahrenheit would prevail. Founded in 331 BC by the infamous Greek Alexander The Great, Alexandria has been a great city for over two thousand years. It history is best known for the ancient library and the lighthouse. Today, the city we saw was a husk of its former glory.
Seaside Alexandria was not what we expected. Rather than lovely shore side paths with pedestrian speed traffic and lovely palm trees, coastal villas, restaurants and hotels, we we were assaulted with dirty beaches, dilapidated apartment buildings, reclamation, unrelenting dusty smog, and incessant traffic so choked that we needed to cross the avenue using subterranean walkways. It was evident that this once was a luxury destination. There is still a Four Seasons resort. But decades of neglect have taken a toll.
Despite our disappointment, we strolled along the waterfront, taking in the sights of locals preparing for an after dusk Ramadan celebration. Some of the beaches were prepared with food carts, tables and chairs. We found a pier with waterside cafes and picked out a spot to sit down and enjoy a cool beverage. Most of us were thirsty for a beer. But, being Ramadan, none was on the menu. We made the most of it.
The following day, the winds changed direction and significantly improved the weather! A sea breeze cleared away the smog and brought with it refreshment. The agenda called for a visit to the Citadel, a fortress built upon the remains of the ancient Alexandria Lighthouse. And then, a visit to Egypt’s modern Alexandria Library.
The Citadel of Quaitbay is a defensive fortress. It was completed in 1479. It guarded the harbor for centuries. It stands in good condition. Visitors can walk the grounds, and take in the sea breeze and views of Alexandria Harbor. In ancient times, the Alexandria Lighthouse stood here. It was one of seven wonders of the ancient world. Next, we toured the modern edition of the Alexandria Library. In ancient times, the library housed a collection of most of the works and history of the human race. The collection varied from artistic to scientific. The city was considered a scholarly capital. Over centuries it fell into decline – records show the structure came down in the year 275 AD. Today the rebuilt library is impressive and we spent a few hours there. And had a lunch break nearby.
Much later that day, we boarded a very old 1950’s era overnight train to Aswan, in southern Egypt. At the railway station, we saw brand new trains. But ours was not one of those!
Cabin Fever Chronicles - Getting Outdoors with Rod 