Akaroa New Zealand and the Banks Peninsula

12 02 2013

IMG_0097With the balance of the warm sunny day before us, and with no set schedule, we decided to visit New Zealand’s South Island’s Banks Peninsula and the picturesque seaside harbor of Akaroa! Angelique, Yurira, Elwin, myself, and Oscar piled in to the Camry and headed southeast. Oscar and Yurira, even though this is their third season here, had never been there and wanted to check it out.IMG_0094

Having everyone there was unparalleled for me! I’d met Elwin and Angelique in Patagonia. Yurira and Oscar in Oregon, and here we were in New Zealand!

The road passes through beautiful valleys filled with cow and sheep, before climbing, winding up and over the peninsula. While Christchurch is relatively flat, the peninsula is mountainous. In places you are hundreds of feet above the ocean and one can see forever! I caught a glimpse of a sailboat race outside Akaroa. I would see sailboat races all over New Zealand.

IMG_0096If you are in Christchurch, the Banks Peninsula is definitely worth visiting. It sticks out like a grape southeast of town. It has “spokes” of inlets, flanked by mountains, radiating out from the center – so one can find incredible seclusion there. The drive is ridiculously scenic. It is a 1,150 sq km volcanic feature, formed by two eruptive volcanoes. Waters are sapphire blue, and palms are common.IMG_0095

Sun splashed Akaroa was dry, warm, with a gentle breeze blowing through the palms by the harbor. A nice place to window browse, walk the pier, admire the comings and goings of boats, stroll the avenues, and take in a 20-oz British pint of ale under umbrella by the water.

I would be remiss if I glossed over Akaroa’s rich French heritage! Not only is it a beautiful palm studded town on a warm bay, but it is rich in French architecture, heritage and cuisine. The fact is, the South Island narrowly missed becoming a French colony right here. In 1838 French whalers bought the peninsula from the Maori and went to France with the news. They returned with French settlers, but just two days earlier English pounced with their flag, proclaiming it for the English Crown. Nevertheless, nearly 70 French citizens started the settlement, and to this day French heritage is celebrated.

IMG_0099

We had a terrific day with Oscar and Yurira! They had much advice for us on our journey ahead. I’m grateful and hope to maybe join them in Alaska next summer!

 

 


Comments : Leave a Comment »
Tags: , , , ,
Categories : Sailing, Travel

Christchurch New Zealand

11 02 2013

IMG_0088Today we were in Christchurch, New Zealand, where we were to meet with Oscar Manguy and Yurira Hernandez, two Mexican kayak guides I had met during the Loco Roundup Kayak Symposium in 2011. I’ve been Facebooking with them ever since. They work with National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS), guiding in Alaska during the northern summer and New Zealand in the southern summer. Not a bad life! When in New Zealand, they live in Christchurch.

When I decided to head to New Zealand, I contacted Yurira and then, when I had definite dates, we were able to coordinate a visit! It was GREAT to see them on the other side of the world!

I hoped to paddle with them, but it seems the kayak facilities they use are not in Christchurch. So we’d spend time visiting in Christchurch and then figure out what to to. Elwin and I were curious about a city called Akaroa, which is on the Banks Peninsula, south of town. But Elwin, Angelique and myself really didn’t know much about Christchurch itself. So we would spend part of the day in downtown Christchurch.

Christchurch, founded in 1850, with about 345,000 people, is the 2nd largest city in New Zealand, and the biggest on the South Island. You wouldn’t know it by looking out from the central city – because the area is pretty flat and the buildings are not so tall. The fact is, Christchurch spreads out a lot. It’s got a wealth of cultural attractions, fine beaches, ample city parks and gardens, and heartbreakingly beautiful churches, which were devastated by two 2011 earthquakes.  It suffered a devastating 6.9 magnitude earthquake in February 2011 and a major aftershock six months later. I talked with some locals – they said one earthquake caused sideways shifting, while the other seemed to jolt upwards.

We first met for lunch, and then took a stroll around. The central business district was simply devastated. And much remains rubble, as building codes are to be updated before reconstruction can begin in earnest. Much of the old downtown was built on ground that was subject to liquefaction. Worse, many older classic buildings and churches were built of brick or stone. All around Christchurch once lovely churches lie in varying states of rebuilding process.

IMG_0089

Seats still inside this theater!

 

We checked out a central business district shopping mall made of shipping containers. This was an interesting way to try to drum up some economic activity!

IMG_0091We passed a theater and what must have been a lively restaurant / bar district. Today, these buildings lay in various states of ruin.

Still, the city is vibrant and moving on. There are lovely walkways and gardens everywhere. If only I had pictures of all the lovely parts of Christchurch!

We’d reached about 2:00 in the afternoon…what would we like to do next? Let’s head to the Banks Peninsula and check out Akaroa. We’d heard it’s a beautiful, warm, with a French flair. So we piled into the Camry and headed over there! More next blog post!

 

 

 


Comments : Leave a Comment »
Tags: , , , , , , , , , ,
Categories : Life Outside, Outdoor Industry, Paddling, Sailing, Travel

Christchurch New Zealand, Left Sided Driving, Meeting Elwin and Angelique

9 02 2013

I flew out of Palmerston North, over the infamous Cook Strait and landed at Christchurch, New Zealand. Cook Strait is one of Earth’s most dangerous crossings. There was a storm approaching from Antarctica that day, and we were taking a slightly diverted route to avoid turbulence. I will never forget what I saw, looking down at the strait. I saw over 30-foot continuously breaking swells – you could see the foam piles behind the swells stretching for hundreds of yards! These swells were just running amok on fire! That would be super un-cool to be out there in any craft.

The flight left at 7:10 a.m. and landed at 8:30 so I was in Christchurch for the better part of the day. Elwin and Angelique were to land from Sydney, Australia about 3:30 p.m. They’d just spent a month in Australia. I rented our car for the month from Apex Rentals, and then set about finding our apartment at Avalon Motel & Suites. Needless to say I was more than a bit nervous about jumping in a car and driving on the left side of the road! The turn signals and windshield wiper activators were on opposite sides than in the USA, and of course the car is right-side drive. So when turning I would activate the wipers DUH. Or when getting into the car to drive come up on the left side, DUH.

Apex Car Rentals is a good deal in New Zealand. I rented a Toyota Camry with unlimited mileage and full collision coverage for a month for $1,450. It is $40/day for the car before insurance. It was not new – a 2006 – but the car was perfectly adequate for the curvy/hill-packed roads and comfortably sized for the three of us. Gasoline was approximately $115/tank. Most of New Zealand highways are only one lane in each direction – so you need to pass if you want to move on. The Camry had adequate power for passing, even with three of us and luggage. How did we work the money? Since I spent so much on the car, Angelique and Elwin would pay for the hotels and gas until their spending caught up with mine.

I got in behind the wheel. Holy bejezus. I hadn’t driven in a left sided country since 1983. There are lots of roundabouts in New Zealand and at first they can be a challenge! I took some time in some side neighborhoods to get used to what I was doing! I checked into our apartment which was pretty sweet. It had two bedrooms (one with twins and another with queen) and a living room equipped with kitchen and even a washing machine. Pretty up to date actually.

I had a few hours to kill so I headed to the waterfront. There are miles of beaches so I watched swimmers, bathers and surfers doing what they do. Here I was. The surf here was fairly challenging but folks just went at it.

It was time to go back to the airport to pick my co-wanderers up! Once they came through customs, it was a bit emotional to see them again! The last time we were together was in Buenos Aires! We had been all over Chilean and Argentinean Patagonia together, and now it was time to see the “other down under” the Kiwi side!

Tomorrow we’d meet up with my friends Yurira and Oscar, kayak guides I know who work here in the New Zealand summer. This was going to be great!


Comments : Leave a Comment »
Tags: , , ,
Categories : Paddling, Travel

Happy New Year 2013 in Palmerston North New Zealand

8 02 2013

Early on the 31st we dropped Paul’s daughter Anthia off for a flight back to Melbourne. For New Year’s Eve, Paul, Liz and I would hit up a couple of their favorite places visited by local Kiwis, The Rose & Crown which is a very English style pub, and then closer to home for driving – The Bunnythorpe Tavern!

I was assured I’d meet lots of Kiwis and I was not disappointed! I was not just the only Yank, but the only foreigner in either place! Liz got into a very nice New Year’s Eve dress. I did not pack any “dressy” stuff for this trip so I was stuck with backpacker pants and Carhartt button down shirt. Not to matter. I was all comfortable when we arrived at the Rose & Crown. Nobody was in a tux! Paul is sort of a luminary in Palmy North. As soon as we stepped out of the truck people were greeting us warmly. There was a group of smokers outside, and everyone else gathered seated at a table inside. I was introduced and felt pretty much at home conversing with these friendly folks.

IMG_0084

After a couple rounds of beer, we heard a commotion outside, and in comes a man in a kilt with a staff. He is leading a band of Scottish pipers – who soon piled in to the pub, playing up a storm! There were 15 or so of them.

This was great fun. So it seems this merry band does a New Year’s Eve tour, going from bar to bar until the stroke of midnight!

Then it was time to have something to eat, lest the brew go to the head. Ordering and paying for restaurant food in New Zealand is different than in America. Instead of sitting down and ordering food from a server, you order and pay for your meal from the bar. And you do not tip!

Paul suggests a Lamb Shank, so I order that and it’s really good. It comes with peas and mashed potatoes. Just what is perfect on New Year’s Eve.

IMG_0083

Then it’s on to the Bunnythorpe Tavern.

bunny

The area called Bunnythorpe is a small crossroads of roads 6km from Palmerston North. Mostly residents, primarily folks who work in agricultural trades, visit the tavern to socialize.

The tavern is as unpretentious as you can imagine! Basically a cinder block structure with pool tables, bar, and a stage. It doesn’t matter if you are age 25 or 65, if you live in Bunnythorpe, you go there. Everyone knows you and probably more than you want! Hard to make a move in a small town without everyone knowing about it!

The band was trying as hard as possible to play some cover songs for what they thought the crowd wanted to hear, yet everyone was complaining and glad when they took a break. Seems they were locals, too, because folks were giving band members a hard time during the break.

I had a good time there. Lots to talk about with Kiwis, who have me plenty of advice on things to do on my trip! With that, we departed, driving extra careful on the way home as it was New Year’s Eve!

Paul and his family were wonderful hosts, and this really was a great way to start my New Zealand holiday. There is nothing like going to the other side of the world and meeting with friends. Now, I’d be flying to New Zealand’s South Island, to Christchurch, to meet with Elwin and Angelique – and we’d start our exploration.


Comments : Leave a Comment »
Tags: , , , , , ,
Categories : Travel

Hawke’s Bay, Napier and Wine Tasting

6 02 2013

IMG_0058As you know I live in Portland, Oregon – where it’s dark and rainy in December! So I was super excited to take a holiday in summery New Zealand! But I brought the rain with me. It was raining when I got to Palmerston North, and it was fickle – rain/sun/rain the first couple of days. The thing about New Zealand is that if you drive east, over the mountains, it’s often dry and warm from places west. So Paul made plans to take us to Hastings and Hawke’s Bay – his dad and sister live over there. Plus, we’d pay a visit to some of the wineries the area is known for. Sounded good to me!

This was going to be a great day. Paul, Liz, myself and Anthia loaded up and took off east – we’d breakfast on the way. One Kiwi dish that ought to be sampled by visitors are the savory pies. So, Paul had a favorite pie bakery where we’d stop and eat a mid morning breakfast.

Paul and Liz

Paul and Liz

IMG_0052

They had all sorts of pies – chicken, turkey, pork, beef, but I chose the seafood. It was delicious! And we had some “doughnut” sweet type pastries, too.

I had to get some cappuccino to go with this. Having a “meat pie” for breakfast was new to me, but these were quite nice.

The irony here is that these pies were made by Cambodians! I think the bakery was named Angkor Wat Kiwi Bakery.

Once we arrived on the east side of the mountains, the sky cleared and it warmed up substantially-with no humidity! Over in the jewel-like suburb of Havelock North, the town was very neat and clean – houses with crisply tended yards, flowers everywhere, purple flowered jacaranda trees – and a blue sea beyond. Hard to resist an intoxicated feeling just being there.

IMG_3368

A jacaranda tree – just like in Buenos Aires!

We picked up Paul’s dad in Havelock North and headed up into the coastal hills – to a Te Mata Peak – a place with a panoramic view of the whole Hawke’s Bay area!

IMG_0054

View from Te Mata Peak

IMG_0053

After a brief lunch visit at Paul’s sister’s house, we drove through Napier, a coastal town known for its Art-Deco architecture, to the Mission Estate Winery.

Napier is definitely sun-splashed. It’s got a mile-wide beach – but it’s not good for swimming as there are dangerous currents. You can swim further north.

Napier was flattened in 1931 by a 7.9 magnitude earthquake. The town was subsequently rebuilt in the then-trendy art deco style and visitors come to see the architecture. It’s a major export port for wool, fruit and wines the area is famous for.

We pass through on our way, stopping at the marina area to the north.

IMG_0059

There is someone launching a Feelfree Move sit on top kayak with a fishing set up, and there are Laser Class sailboats getting ready to race. I take a step into the waters and it would have been a decent swim…but we move on.

We check out the Mission Estate Winery – the oldest in New Zealand.

It reminds me of something out of Gone with the Wind, except that we’re in New Zealand. Grand style, grand semi circle entrance, big halls, and beautiful palm-studded grounds with tables set out.IMG_0064

IMG_0067People sitting at the tables enjoying fine food and drink. After some tasting, Paul bought a bottle of Chardonnay, and I a Merlot-Syrah. New Year’s is coming…

IMG_3370


Comments : Leave a Comment »
Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Categories : Travel

Holiday Season in New Zealand

3 02 2013

The first part of my New Zealand trip was to be five days with my friend Paul Lepper and his family, in Palmerston North. This would be a great introduction to Kiwi life. For the first part of my trip, I would spend time with 100% Kiwis – people who live and work in the heart of the country. My flight left Portland, Oregon – to Vancouver, British Columbia. There, I’d catch an Air New Zealand flight to Auckland. Once there, I’d hop on a 60-minute domestic flight to Palmerston North. Total trip length? Two hours to Vancouver and 14 hours from there to Auckland, plus layovers. Total was about 22 hours.

Preparation for grilling!

Preparation for grilling!

I have known Paul and his wife Liz for seven years. Paul designs kayaks for Feelfree Kayaks. I was a USA Brand Manager for Feelfree Kayak USA, which distributed Feelfree in America. I’d worked with Paul on many occasions – in Bangkok, where they are manufactured, or at the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show in Salt Lake City, Utah. We’d trained sales reps. We’d worked on design tweaks. We’d discussed where the market is going. We’d talked manufacturing schedules. We’d shown boats to countless dealers. We’d tipped more than a few pints in Bangkok or Utah. But I had never been to New Zealand! Paul had told me many times I have to come and visit. The timing was right this time!

View from Paul's house

View from Paul’s house

I arrived December 28th – Liz met me at the airport – and I was surprised that it was maybe 10 minutes to their house! It was SO nice to see her!

 

Cows out back

Cows out back

They live on 40 acres, have 44 cows, two dogs, several sheep. The house is crescent shaped, partly to deflect wind. It’s a one-story house, so it kind of sprawls to account for the rooms. There is also a view of Mt Ruapehu. Once arrived I went to work tending the cows! This was a good thing for a jet lagged soul. I donned gum-shoes, and set about moving the cows from one paddock to another. The property also has a fabricating facility – and it is there that the kayak designs come to life. I did not take any pictures in there!

Liz and Anthia

Liz and Anthia

I met Paul’s daughter Anthia a and son Glen. Paul has done well for himself. Everyone is so nice and made me feel comfortable. Essentially I was made to feel part of the family. I had a room, and anything I needed don’t ask just grab, whether it be a beer or something from the refrigerator.

IMG_0048

Something very down under!

The next day I joined Paul, Anthia and Liz on a journey to the east coast of New Zealand’s North Island. Hastings/Napier to see Paul’s dad. We would also visit a mountain with a terrific view, and a winery! Anthia lives in Melbourne, Australia and was home for the holidays…she had lots to say about Melbourne!

One thing about New Zealand is they are into sit on tops and there a lot of Feelfree Kayaks down there.


Comments : Leave a Comment »
Tags: , , , , , ,
Categories : Outdoor Industry, Paddling, Travel

Next Entries »